knitting Archives - Page 25 of 27

old school gaming hat

Old School Gaming Hat is a simple hat with a folded brim and fun stranded color work depicting old school gaming characters. With only two colors for the color work, this hat knits up super quick and is a great first stranded project for anyone who has never attempted this technique before.

This pattern contains instructions for three adult sizes when worked in an aran weight yarn. Use a DK or light worsted weight yarn instead for sizes suitable for children from 3 months old and upwards.

The Old School Gaming Hat is completely seamless and knitted from the bottom up. The color work pattern for the body of the hat is provided charted only. All other instructions are in written form

Pay what you want: (minimum €4.90)

€

Difficulty level

The Old School Gaming Hat is seamless and knit in the round from the bottom up. This pattern involves following a color chart and working in stranded knitting. An alternative technique for creating the design is to duplicate stitch this design onto the hat after knitting.

Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog and the M1 increase. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Adult sizes S (M, L) to fit size: 46-53 (53-60, 60-67) cm, 18-21 (21-24, 24-27) inches.
Children’s sizes 3M (6-12M, child-teen) to fit size: 33-38 (38-43, 43-48) cm, 13-15 (15-17, 17-19) inches.

Pattern details

Worked in the round
Gauge for adult sizes in aran weight yarn: 17 sts / 24 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette, knit with larger needles and measured after blocking.
Gauge for children’s sizes in DK or light worsted weight yarn: 19 sts / 26 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette, knit with larger needles and measured after blocking.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
Digital PDF has 3 pages (A4 size)

Materials

Yarn: In the adult sized aran weight sample Peruvian Highland Wool by Filcolana [100% wool; 100 m (109 yds) per 50 g skein] was used. Substitute any wool aran weight yarn for a similar teen/adult sized result. For a child sized hat, choose a DK or light worsted weight yarn instead.
- Main color: 100 (125, 150) m (110 (135, 165) yds) / 50 (62, 75) g in gray.
- Contrast color 1: 21 (26, 32) m (22 (28, 33) yds) / 27 (30, 32) g in pink.
- Contrast color 2: 21 (26, 32) m (22 (28, 33) yds) / 27 (30, 32) g in yellow.
Needles in your preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round in the following sizes (or to match gauge):
- Adult sizes knit in aran weight yarn: Size 4 mm (US 6) and size 4.5 mm (US 7).
- Children’s sizes knit in DK or light worsted weight yarn: Size 3.5 mm (US 4) and size 4 mm (US 6).
Yarn needle
1 end-of-round stitch marker
3 (4, 5) differently colored stitch markers (optional)

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tutorial: horizontal 1-row buttonhole

Many projects are not really finished until buttons and buttonholes are added. A simple buttonhole for small buttons is made by making a yarnover, followed by knitting 2 stitches together. This decrease is needed to keep the total number of stitches the same. For larger buttons and a firmer and neater buttonhole I very much like a horizontal 1-row buttonhole, which basically is a buttonhole knitted over 1 row.

In this post, I’ll show you how to make such a buttonhole. If you want to try it yourself, be sure to practice first on a swatch. It may take a few times to make nice consistent buttonholes!

The horizontal 1-row buttonhole step by step

1. First, you must decide where you want to place the buttonhole and how big it should be. Make the buttonhole just big enough to be able to just pass your button through. Much bigger and it will loosen too easily, smaller and buttons are difficult to open and close. This is also a matter of trying out. In this example, I will be placing the buttonhole somewhere in the middle of the sample piece.

2. Once you get to the point where you want to begin the buttonhole, bring your yarn between the needles to the front. Then slip 1 stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Next, bring the yarn to the back of the work again.

3. Slip 1 stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle.

4. Pass the second stitch on your right needle over the first stitch.

5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 as often as necessary to get the correct number of cast-off stitches for the size button chosen. In this example I repeated steps 3 and 4 twice.

6. Now slip the first stitch from the right needle back to the left needle.

7. Turn your work and pull the yarn tight to prevent holes and loose stitches next to the buttonhole.

8. Now cast-on stitches, for example by knitting them on, or by using the backward-loop method. Cast-on the number of stitches you have cast-off earlier, plus 1 extra. In the example I cast-on a total of 4 stitches.

9. Turn piece again and slip the first stitch purl-wise from your left to your right needle.

10. Pass the second stitch on your right needle (the last cast-on extra stitch) over the first stitch.

11. Now slip the first stitch from your right needle back to the left needle and continue knitting according to your pattern.

And this is how your horizontal 1-row buttonholehole will look:

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enigma

Enigma is a cozy layering piece, perfect for those times that you just want to wrap up in warm woolens. With its easy construction and textured stitch patterns, Enigma is an interesting but relaxing knit.

Pay what you want: (minimum €7.10)

€

Difficulty level

Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, skp, yo and a centered double decrease. This pattern is suitable for the beginning knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

This pattern includes 5 sizes: XS (S/M, L/XL, 2XL/3XL, 4XL). For more sizing information, please see the data page in the picture gallery below. The pattern is written for an over-sized relaxed fit. Instructions are included to customize the fit of the garment.

Pattern details

Worked flat
Written for a gauge of approx. 14 sts / 20 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over in Double Moss stitch using larger size needles, after blocking.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie).
Digital PDF has 4 pages in the English version and 5 in the Dutch version (A4 size)

Materials

720 (790, 840, 850, 900) m (790 (860, 915, 930, 980) yards) / 360 (395, 420, 425, 450) g or 8 (8,9,9,9) balls of Ístex Létt-Lopi [100 % wool, 100 m (109 yards) per 50 gram skein]. Substitute any aran weight single ply type yarn for a similar result.
Size 4.5 mm (US 7) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needle (because of the large number of stitches) or size needed to obtain gauge and a size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needle.
Yarn needle
Waste yarn for provisional cast on and holding stitches
2 stitch markers
Crochet hook equivalent to the smaller size knitting needles (optional – for seaming using sl st only)

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tutorial: contrast in color

It seems so simple, but contrast in color really is a thing for color work projects: one combination of colors can very much differ from the other. One aspect of color theory in relation to knitting and crochet consists of the contrast of the colors chosen. You can go for big contrasts, or just for subtle differences if you so desire.

But how can you tell what kind of contrast you have with the yarns and colors chosen?

Luckily there is a very handy trick to determine whether a particular color combination has big contrast or only a little. To do so, just take a photo of the yarns together and make the picture black and white!

Take for example the yarns below, quite different from each other, don’t you think?

Contrast in color - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

The black and white version, however, tells a different tale!

It turns out that the light blue version combined with the lilac hardly differ in contrast. This means that when you combine both in a project, the colors won’t really “pop”. An excellent choice, if that is your intention. If on the contrary a lot of contrast is desired, the dark blue combined with the light blue or the lilac would be a far better choice.

Try finding the contrast in color out for yourself!

Want to try some simple color work yourself? Take a look at the Pijl hat (also pictured above) and the Bloem hat!

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tutorial: Russian bind-off

You probably already know that there are many different ways to bind off. A problem that sometimes occurs is that the bind off too tight. That is when you get the sweaters were no head fits through the neck opening, or those toe-up knitted socks where no foot can be put in and lace shawls that can’t be blocked out to reveal their patterning.

Of course, you can choose to go up in needle size when binding off. However, a too loose bind off is not pretty either… What to do? In these cases, my go-to bind off is the Russian bind-off. This is an elegant way to get a very elastic edge on your piece. This is often important to me because I knit a lot of lace shawls.

In patterns you may encounter the following instructions for this type of bind off:
Russian bind-off: K1, * k1, slip stitches from right-hand back to left-hand needle and k2tog tbl. Repeat from * to end.

The Russian bind-off step by step

1. Knit the first stitch.

2. Knit the next stitch

3. Slip the two stitches on your right-hand needle back to your left-hand needle.

4. Knit these two stitches together through the back loop.

5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 until you have reached the end. The result on a piece in stockinette stitch will look like this:

Tip

The Russian bind-off can for example also be used to bind off in rib pattern. You only need to adjust step 2 of the above instructions: Knit the knit stitches that you encounter and purl the purl stitches. That’s all there is to it!

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brocaat

Brocaat is an elegant and fast to knit scarf, designed to use only one ball of super bulky weight yarn with long color runs. Make it nice and long so it can be worn doubled up.

The description of the lace in this pattern is provided both fully charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €5.50)

€

Difficulty level

Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, skp, yo and a centered double decrease. This pattern is suitable for the beginning lace knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size – measurements: 18 cm (7 inches) wide and 170 cm (67 inches) long, excluding fringe.

Pattern details

Brocaat is worked flat.
Written for a gauge of approx. 11 sts / 15 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over lace pattern, after blocking.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
Digital PDF has 3 pages (A4 size)

Materials

184 m (201 yds) / 100 g Scheepjes Vinci [60% wool, 40% acrylic; 184 m (201 yds) per 100 g]. Substitute any super bulky weight yarn with long color runs for a similar result.
Needles in your preferred style in size 8 mm (US 11).
Yarn needle
Crochet hook to attach fringe

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making a braided join

Earlier, in my blog about the Russian join, I’ve already shown you how my favorite way to attach a new ball of yarn works. But how do you join new yarn just as invisible and strong when you do not have a needle with you?

In that situation, I like to use the braided method where the old and new yarn are braided together. Just as with the Russian method this makes a very strong join, which remains in place even with slick yarns like satin and mercerized cotton. Also, after you have complete your project no ends are to be woven in, as these are already woven in when making the join.

A prerequisite for this method is that your yarn consists of at least two plies. Why is this important, you will see later in this blog. The braided join makes for a locally thicker thread, but this does not need to be a problem, because it is often not very visible.

The braided join step by step

In this example I have used two different colors of yarn to show you exactly how to work this type of join.

1. The two threads to join, the pink yarn comes from the project, the yellow-green is the new ball of yarn.

2. In the “old” yarn loosen the plies over a length of approx. 10 cm (4 inch) and divide into two. Place the new yarn on top of it as shown in the photograph.

3. Hold the threads together at the top. I like to hold them between my forefinger and middle finger, but you can also use a paperclip or something similar.

4. Braid the three pieces of yarn (two of the “old” and one of the new ball of wool) together to join them.

5. Braid until you reach the end of the three threads, you have a braided portion of about 5 up to 7.5 cm (2 to 3 inch).

And now you can continue knitting again. As you see in the picture below, there are three stitches in this sample in which both threads are visible. However, if you join the same color of yarn, the join would be hardly visible in the finished piece.

The back of the work looks like in the photo below. The loose ends I usually leave until after washing and possibly blocking the work. Then it’s just a matter of (carefully!) cutting them off.

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olivijn

Olivijn is a crescent-shaped shawl worked from the top-down. Its stockinette body will let that special skein of fingering weight yarn shine, the lace edging adds a special touch of luxury.

Start this shawl with a garter stitch tab, then work the lace in the border on both right side and wrong side rows. The instructions for the body and the border of the shawl are provided both fully charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

€

Difficulty level

Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, skp, yo, p3tog and a centered double decrease. This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Size and finished measurements

Olivijn has a wingspan of 152 cm (60 inches) and a depth of 47 cm (18 ½ inches), measured after blocking.

Pattern details

Written for a gauge of 18 sts / 23 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette after blocking. Gauge is not critical for this design, but a loose gauge is strongly advised.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie).
Digital PDF has 3 pages (A4 size).

Materials

440 m (480 yds) / 110 g Siidegarte Siide-Quirlig [70% silk, 30% SeaCell; 440 m (480 yds) / 110 g skein] in “Hirtetäschli”. Substitute any fingering weight yarn with a high silk or bamboo content for a similar result.
Size 4.5 mm (US 7) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles, or size needed to get gauge.
Size 5 mm (US 8) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles, for bind-off only.
Yarn needle.
28 stitch markers (optional).

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Lelie

Lelie is an airy lace shawl with a beautiful and intricate stitch pattern of flowing leaves blooming into lovely flowers. Evoking feelings of spring and summer this shawl is a perfect choice to dress up that lovely outfit.

This shawl is knitted from the top-down in one piece, starting at the neck edge with a garter tab. The instructions for the body and the border of the shawl are provided both fully charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

€

Difficulty level

Stitches used include knit, purl, skp, yo, a left-leaning double decrease and a centered double decrease. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Size and finished measurements

Lelie has a wingspan of 170 cm (67 inches) and a depth of 70 cm (27 ½ inches), measured after blocking.

Pattern details

Written for a gauge of 13.6 sts / 26.4 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over body pattern after blocking, gauge is however not critical in this design.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
Digital PDF has 6 pages for the English version and 7 pages in the Dutch version (letter size)

Materials

480 m (525 yds) / 120 g Siidegarte Siide-Fideel [50% wool, 50% silk], in color Pfaffechäppli. Substitute any fingering weight yarn for a similar result.
A circular needle size 4 mm (US 6), 80 cm (32 inches) long was used for the sample shawl.
Yarn needle
4 stitch markers to indicate the center stitch and edge stitches
18 stitch markers to indicate repeats of the shawl body pattern (optional)

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knitting history

A woman wearing a light blue cablesd sweater

It is quite possible that you are not the only one in your immediate family, who knits or crochets. Perhaps a mother who likes to click the needles. Or maybe a grandmother who regularly made you a sweater when you were little. In this blog I want to share a bit of my personal knitting history with you.

My grandmother was a good knitter. Unfortunately I haven’t experienced this first hand, because she died very young, only a couple of weeks after I was born. All these years my mother had been saving a big pile of sweaters made by my grandmother. Then, about 35 years later my mom visited me and brought along all these sweaters with the question if I would like some. The rest she would finally let go.

One of the sweaters really does suit me, is very much my style and one I have since worn every winter. That’s the sweater you see pictured above. One of the other sweaters was not wearable for me, but so beautifully made that I could not find it in my heart to throw it out. A gorgeous fair isle sweater made in several shades of blue.

A felted fair-isle sweater in shades of blue and white

And suddenly I had the wonderful idea to use this sweater to make something for my mother, so she would still have a tangible reminder of her mother’s knitting. My mother did keep these sweaters for all these years for a reason after all. My thoughts went out to making cushions, with the front of each cushion consisting of a panel of this sweater.

In preparation I had undone all the seams and felted the sweater panels. However, once it came down to cutting the cushion pieces and sewing them I got cold feet… I have absolutely no experience with sewing and was terrified to ruin this irreplaceable piece of felt. After some thinking I put a note about it with a plea for help in the”DutchKarma Swap Group” on Ravelry. A very sweet lady came to my rescue and transformed my grandmother’s sweater into these lovely pillow covers:

And my mother? She did not expect this gift at all and was extremely happy with this piece of our shared knitting history!

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