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tutorial – the buttonhole loop bind-off

The buttonhole loop bind-off is very similar to the standard knitted bind-off, but with a twist! There are loops of yarn worked right at the edge of the work, which can be utilized as buttonholes. Of course, you can also just use this bind-off because it’s decorative. And yes, in this tutorial I’m using the swatch of the slip stitch rib stitch pattern, I showed you two weeks ago. Let’s get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

The buttonhole loop bind-off step by step

To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off, and knit the first stitch.
Next, knit the new stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the second stitch on the right-hand needle….
…., and pass this second stitch over the first one.
You have now bound-off a stitch!
Repeat steps 2-4 until you have reached the spot where you want to have the buttonhole.
In my case, I want the buttonhole right between the 2 purl stitches in the rib. So I continued binding stitches off, until I had worked the first of the 2 purl stitches.
Next, we want to make a series of loops to accommodate the buttons you’ve chosen. Depending on the size of the buttons, You may want to work longer loops than I’m doing in this example.
To start the first loop, place the stitch from the right-hand needle back to the left-hand needle.
Next, insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle as if to knit.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
… and pull it through. You have now made 1 “chain”.
This is very similar to working a chain with a crochet hook, hence the name I’m giving it.
I want a loop consisting of 3 “chains”, so I have repeated steps 6-9 another two times.
To close the loop, I then worked steps 2-4 once more.

The result

In the below picture, I worked another 2 buttonholes, again centered in the purl part of the rib patterning. I really like this result!

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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stitch pattern – slip stitch rib

The slip stitch rib stitch pattern is a textured knitting pattern that creates a beautifully subtle, somewhat stretchy fabric. It looks a lot like regular k1, p2 rib, but the knit stitch spans 2 rows instead of 1. It’s a versatile stitch pattern often used for garments, accessories, and home decor projects, as it offers a balance between structure and flexibility. Unlike regular rib, my swatch did have a tendency to roll a bit. It’s also less elastic than regular rib. That said, the slip stitch technique, combined with knit stitches, results in a pattern that is both simple to execute and visually interesting.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 3 stitches + 2, and in a two-row repeat. Please note that in this swatch, no edge stitches have been added.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl
st(s) – stitch(es)

Slip stitch rib instructions

Set-up row: K2, *p1, k2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 1 (RS): *P2, slip the next st with yarn in back*; rep *-* to 2 sts before end, p2.
Row 2 (WS): K2, *p1, k2*; rep *-* to end.

Repeat rows 1-2 for pattern until desired length.

Below you can see how this stitch pattern looks, first as seen the from the right side, and then from the wrong side of the fabric.

stitch pattern – slip stitch rib Read More »

tutorial – working a yo at the beginning of a row

Recently, I read about someone wondering why and how to work a yarn over at the beginning of a row. Since this is a technique I regularly use, I thought to write a tutorial about it. So, first: why would you want to work a yarn over at the beginning of a row?

When I do this, I usually do that at the beginning of a wrong side (inwards going) row on a knitted-on or applied border. This can be in a project where a border is actually applied. Take for example my Sunglow Forest shawl. This however also applies to designs that are knit sideways, and in which the border is worked at the same time as the body of the shawl. My Kurkuma shawl is an example of this type of project. In both examples, I work “yo, k2tog” at the beginning of every wrong side (inwards going) row. It creates a nice loopy edge that can be used to place your blocking pins in. I also feel this yarn over gives a bit of extra stretch, right at the edge of the project.

Read on to see how to work a yarn over at the beginning of a row!

Materials used

Yarn: Ice Yarns Merino Silk (95% Merino, 5% Silk; 225 m (246 yds) / 50 g) that I overdyed with the exhaust from an onion skin dye bath. This yarn is unfortunately discontinued.

Needles: Some Addi circular needles.

Working a yo at the beginning of a row step by step

First, make sure, you’re right at the beginning of the row where you want to make the yarn over.
It’s a bit hard to see because the first 2 stitches on the needle overlap each other a bit, but the first 3 stitches are to be worked as knit stitches to make stockinette.
To make a yarn over, I usually just wrap it around the right-hand needle. So that’s what I also do here. Just ignore that it’s at the beginning of the row.
You may want to hold the yarn on the right-hand needle to make sure it doesn’t slip off, until you’ve worked the next stitch. Once the next stitch is worked, the yo will be fixed in place on the knitting needle.
Below, you can see the result after I’ve worked a k2tog over the first 2 stitches on the left-hand needle.
As you can see, that yarn over isn’t going anywhere now!

And that is all there is to it! Just work further as your pattern describes, and treat the yarn over like the regular stitch on the needle it really is. Below, you can see how that edge looks like, when viewed from the right side of the fabric. Pretty, right?!

The result of working a yo at the beginning of a row

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stitch pattern – bubble stitch

The bubble stitch is a lovely way to add texture to your knitting. This pattern creates three-dimensional bubbles in the fabric, making it great to add extra interest to your projects. It’s a stitch pattern, that is known under many different names. You can also encounter it as the bubble wrap stitch, and the air bobble stitch. While the bubble stitch may look similar to the regular bobble stitch, it’s structured very differently. The bubble stitch creates a pattern of raised, rounded bubbles across the fabric, through a combination of knit and purl stitches and elongated stitches. The bobble stitch, on the other hand, involves creating a protruding, three-dimensional knot by working multiple stitches into one, and then decreasing back to a single stitch.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches + 3, and in a twelve-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
k4b – knit 4 below
p – purl
st(s) – stitch(es)

Bubble stitch instructions

Row 1 (right side): Knit.
Row 2 and all following wrong side rows: Purl.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 5: K3, *k4b, k3*; rep *-* to end.
Row 7: Knit.
Row 9: Knit.
Row 11: K1, *k4b, k3*; rep *-* to 2 sts before end, k4b, k1.
Row 12: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-12 for pattern until desired length.

Please note that if you want to work this pattern in multiple colors, change colors after row 4 and 10.

Below you can see how this stitch pattern looks, first as seen the from the right side, and then from the wrong side of the fabric.

stitch pattern – bubble stitch Read More »

tutorial – working the knit 4 below (k4b) stitch

There are cases in which skipping the row on your needle for particular stitches is desired, and one is to knit or purl in the row below that one. In other words: you knit/purl into the stitch below where you normally would, exactly as the name suggests. Specifically for the bubble stitch, however, we have to work not 1 but 4 stitches below the one on the knitting needle. So that’s what I’ll be showing you in this tutorial on how to work the knit 4 below or k4b stitch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a knit 4 below (k4b) stitch step by step

In patterns, you may encounter the following description of this stitch:
Knit 4 below (k4b): Take the next stitch off the needle, and drop 4 stitches down. Insert the needle underneath the loose strands from front to back into the stitch 4 rows below the one on the needle. Knit this stitch, then pull the worked stitch and the strands above off the needle together.
But how to actually do this? Read on!

First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the stitch.
In this case, I’m making the k4b stitch 5 stitches in from the right edge.
Carefully unravel the column of stitches, until you have 4 loose strands of yarn.
Now, insert the left-hand needle knit wise in the stitch….
… and also place the 4 strands of yarn over the needle.
This will make it easier to knit the stitch underneath those strands, catching them.
Insert the right-hand needle knit-wise into the stitch you placed on the left-hand needle.
Now wrap your working yarn around the needle…
Make sure to do this at the back of the 4 loose strands of yarn.
…. and pull it through the stitch, and underneath the 4 strands of yarn.
Finish the stitch by slipping the new stitch to the right-hand needle.

And that is how you work the knit 4 below (k4b) stitch!

tutorial – working the knit 4 below (k4b) stitch Read More »

tutorial – left twist in stockinette

Tutorial working a Left Twist in stockinette

The basic characteristic of a left twist is that it switches the order of 2 adjoining stitches. One “main stitch” and one “background stitch”. This makes it appear that the main stitch travels to the left. In a previous tutorial, I showed you how to work the left twist used in a stitch pattern from the Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible by Hitomi Shida. However, in that tutorial, I worked the left twist as a single traveling stitch against a background of reverse stockinette. I used the method of manually manipulating the stitches in the correct order. In this tutorial, I will show you a different way to work a left twist, against a background of stockinette stitch:

Skip the next stitch on the left-hand needle, knit into the back loop of the second stitch, leaving the stitch on the needle. Next, bring the right-hand needle to the front of the left-hand needle and knit into the skipped stitch. Pull both loops off of the left needle to finish the stitch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime Green.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a left twist in stockinette step by step

Do you see the first 2 stitches on the left-hand needle, in the picture below? These are the ones we’re going to work the left twist over.
In other words: we’re going to switch the order of both knit stitches. This will make it appear that the stitches travel to the left.
Insert the right-hand needle knit-wise into the back loop of the second stitch on the left-hand needle, skipping the stitch nearest to the tip.
Wrap the yarn around and the needle….
… and pull it through. Do not slip the original stitch off the needle yet!
Next, insert the right-hand needle knit-wise into the stitch that was skipped.
Wrap the yarn around and the needle….
… and pull it through.
To finish the left twist, slide both original stitches off the left-hand needle.

This is the result:

The result of working a left twist on stockinette

tutorial – left twist in stockinette Read More »

camelia

In the Camelia shawl, a simple stockinette stitch body is paired with an easy to remember garter stitch based lace border. The contrast in textures is striking, and really highlights the yarn used.

This shawl is knit from the top-down in one piece, starting at the neck edge with a garter tab. The instructions for the border patterning are both charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.95)

€

Difficulty level

This shawl is worked from the top down, starting with a garter stitch tab. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, yo, RLI, m1l, and m1r increases. This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size: Span width of 176 cm (69 ¼ inches) measured along the upper edge, and a depth of 77 cm (30 ¼ inches), measured after blocking.

The size of the Camelia shawl can be changed by using lighter or heavier yarn and/or working fewer (or more) repeats of the various sections of the shawl. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

Gauge: Approx. 14.5 sts / 21 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette stitch, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical for this design but should give you a fabric that you like with the yarn used.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)

Yarn

495 m (541 yds) / 150 g Camelia by Filature du Valgaudemar (100% camel; 165 m (180 yds) / 50 g) in “Prune”.

Please note that this specific yarn has been discontinued. Garnstudio DROPS Alpaca (100% alpaca; 167 m (183 yds) / 50 g) would make a good substitute.

Substitute a sport to DK weight yarn in solid or tonal colorways for a similar result. Or, use 150-200 g of fingering weight yarn for a slightly daintier version.

Materials

Size 4 mm (US 4) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl. Use needles appropriate for the yarn chosen.
4 stitch markers to indicate the center stitch and the edge stitches
Stitch markers to indicate repeats of the lace patterning (optional)
Yarn needle

camelia Read More »

stitch pattern – twisted twill stitch

Twisted twill stitch by La Visch Designs

The twisted twill stitch uses the “left twist stitch” to create the wavy lines visible in the swatch pictured. The result looks very similar to cables, but without actual cabling. As a matter of fact, this particular stitch pattern looks very similar to spiral stitch. However, instead of a traveling band of purl stitches, left twist stitches are used. One way or the other, it’s patterning with lovely texture, suitable for a wide range of projects.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 7 stitches + 2, and in an eight-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color 128 Lime Green.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown. You will also need a cable needle.

Stitches used

k – knit
LT – left twist: Skip the next stitch on the left-hand needle, knit into the back loop of the second stitch, leaving the stitch on the needle. Next, bring the right-hand needle to the front of the left-hand needle and knit into the skipped stitch. Pull both loops off of the left needle to finish the stitch.
p – purl
rep – repeat
st(s) – stitch(es)

Twisted twill stitch

Row 1 (right side): P2, *LT, k3, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 2 (and all following wrong side rows): K2, *p5, k2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 3: P2, *k1, LT, k2, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 5: P2, *k2, LT, k1, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 7: P2, *k3, LT, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 8: K2, *p5, k2*; rep *-* to end.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

The twisted twill stitch as seen from the right side. — Twisted twill stitch as seen from the right side

The twisted twill stitch as seen from the wrong side. — Twisted twill stitch as seen from the wrong side

stitch pattern – twisted twill stitch Read More »

tutorial – fixing an edge stitch

It can happen that an edge stitch goes wrong I mean, you’re knitting merely along, and you work a purl stitch where it should have been a knit stitch. And, of course, we only see it when a couple of more rows have been worked. No worries, though, it can be fixed! Fixing an edge stitch is a bit more complex to correct than previous mistakes. This is because you are not dealing with just 1 thread per step, but with a loop that covers 2 rows. We are also dealing with garter rib stitch, instead of stockinette stitch. That said, it’s still very doable if you know the tricks.

So, in this post I’ll show you to fix this!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

A crochet hook in the same size or slightly smaller than your knitting needles. For example, this Pony Aluminum Crochet Hook in size 4 mm.

You will also need a couple of extra crochet hooks or stitch markers to keep the loops of yarn under tension. This will enable you to identify both parts of the loop and work them back up in the correct order.

Fixing an edge stitch step by step

Let’s get started! In this tutorial, I’m using the swatch I also used in previous tutorials on fixing things in knitting.

First, we have to identify the exact spot where the edge stitch went wrong.
Do you see it? It’s right next to the tip of the knitting needle!
Drop the edge stitch down, until you’ve reached the stitch that went wrong.
In this picture, I’ve used some spare crochet hooks to keep the loops of yarn under tension. This way, it’s easier to see that each loop has 2 strands of yarn to use to work the stitches back up. If you’d cover the right side of the picture, it would look exactly like dropping a stitch in the middle of a piece of knitting!
Do you see that the first stitch, directly underneath the main crochet hook, is a knit stitch? This means that the first stitch to be worked back up, needs to be a purl stitch if we work it from the right side.
You can, of course, turn the work and work the stitch up as a knit stitch. However, with an edge stitch I find it easier this way, to keep the edge loops under tension. While under tension, I can more easily see which strands to grab, and in which order.
To work the stitch up as a purl stitch, make sure that the thread of yarn directly above the stitch is positioned in front of the work, and insert the crochet hook from top to bottom through the stitch.
Like this:
Pull the thread through the loop on the crochet hook to complete the purl stitch.
Now it looks like this: (I’ve removed the crochet hook, because I will have to position it differently for the next stitch).
Next is working a knit stitch: Make sure the thread of yarn is behind the work, and insert the crochet hook from bottom to top into the stitch.
To complete the knit stitch, pull the thread through the loop on the crochet hook.
It will look like this:
Repeat steps 4 to 7 once to work the next garter stitch ridge up.
For the final stitch, we repeat steps 4 and 5 once more, using the thread going to the ball of yarn.
With this, you’ve fixed the entire column of edge stitches!

And that is how to go about fixing an edge stitch gone wrong! You are now ready to continue with your project.

tutorial – fixing an edge stitch Read More »

stitch pattern – corrugated rib

Corrugated rib is a way to work ribbing in 2 colors. Similar to working stranded knitting, the 2 colors are alternated while working a row. Because of this, corrugated rib is not a stretchy rib, and therefore not suitable for those projects where a lot of elasticity is needed. It is, however, very decorative. Corrugated rib, like any other type of ribbing, can be worked on a wide variety of stitch multiples. Common variations are 1×1 rib (knit 1, purl 1), 2×2 rib (knit 2, purl 2), and 3×1 rib (knit 3, purl 1). While working the corrugated rib, the knit stitches are worked in one color and the purl stitches are worked in the second color.

This type of rib is most often worked in the round, because it makes it easier to makes sure the strands of the yarn are all on the wrong side of the fabric. That said, it’s also very much possible to work corrugated rib flat back and forth.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches + 2, and in a two-row repeat when worked flat. In the round, it’s worked as a multiple of 4 stitches, and in a one-round repeat.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the colors Vintage Pink, and Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

C1 / C2 – color 1 / color 2
k – knit
p – purl
RS / WS – right side / wrong side
st(s) – stitch(es)

Corrugated rib worked flat

Row 1 (RS): With C1 yarn k2, * with C2 yarn p2, with C1 yarn k2 *; rep from *-* to end.
Row 2 (WS): With C1 yarn p2, * with C2 yarn k2, with C1 yarn p2 *; rep from *-* to end, taking care to keep the strands of unworked yarn at the WS of the work.

Repeat rows 1-2 for pattern until desired length.

Corrugated rib worked in the round

Round 1 (RS): * With C1 yarn k2, with C2 yarn p2 *; rep from *-* to end of round.

Repeat round 1 for pattern until desired length.

The swatch I made, was done flat back and forth. In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Corrugated rib from the RS — Corrugated rib as seen from the RS.

Corrugated rib from the WS — Corrugated rib as seen from the WS.

stitch pattern – corrugated rib Read More »