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Warm Among the Wheat

This fresh take on a simple beanie is worked from brim to crown, with twisted ribbing throughout. After the brim with the twisted rib cable patterning is worked, the body of the hat is worked to the desired height. Next, the crown is finished with neat double decreases. What is not to like?!

This pattern contains instructions for 5 sizes, ranging from a finished size of 24 cm up to 43 cm (9.5 to 17 inches) unstretched. Don’t let this fool you, though. The twisted rib patterning is extremely stretchy (stretching up to 75 cm or 29.5 inches in the largest size), making this hat very flexible in sizing. In addition, the instructions for the patterning are provided both charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €5.00)

€

Difficulty level

The Warm Among the Wheat hat is seamless and knit in the round from the bottom up. Stitches used include knit through the back loop, purl, left- and right leaning twists over 3 sts, skp, as well as left-leaning double decreases. This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5):

Finished circumference (unstretched) of 24 (28.5, 33.5, 38, 43) cm or 9.5 (11.25, 13.25, 15, 17) inches comfortably stretching to approx. 42 (50, 58.5, 67, 75) cm or 16.5 (19.75, 23, 26.5, 29.5) inches.
Finished length, measured from the crown along the curve of the hat to the edge: 17.5 (20.5, 23.5, 27, 30) cm or 6.75 (8, 9.25, 10.5, 11.75) inches.

The sample pictured is in size 3, worn on a 53.5 cm (21 inches) head.

Pattern details

The Warm Among the Wheat hat pattern is written for a gauge of 34 sts / 29 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) unstretched over twisted rib patterning after washing and gentle blocking.
Pattern language included: English.
Digital PDF has 3 pages (letter size).

Yarn

58 (85, 120, 160, 205) m (63 (93, 131, 175, 224) yds) / 23 (34, 48, 64, 82) g Anna & Clara Woolblend w/Bamboo by Søstrene Grene (70% Wool, 30% Rayon from Bamboo; 125 m (137 yds) / 50 g).

Substitute any singly ply type DK weight wool blend yarn for a similar result.

Materials

Size 3.5 mm (US 4) knitting needles in your preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round (or to match gauge).
1 end-of-round stitch marker
4 (5, 6, 7, 8) stitch markers
Cable needle
Yarn needle

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tutorial – working a tubular bind off for 1×1 rib

Tutorial - working a tubular bind off for 1x1 rib

The tubular bind-off creates a rounded edge of your knitting project, as well as being very stretchy. This makes it a very good bind-off for edges that are prone to wear and tear. And, of course, where the stretch is useful. Think, for example, of bottom-up socks. In this example, I’m binding off a sleeve of a top-down sweater. That said, this bind-off is very time-consuming to work, very much worth it in my opinion, though!

Of course, there are many ways to work a tubular bind-off. This particular version is for working in k1, p1 rib patterning. It can be used both in the round and for knits worked flat, and is a perfect match for the tubular cast on I did a tutorial about recently.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

Darning needle: Hiya Hiya Darn It Yarn Needle, or any other tapestry needle, threaded with yarn.

Working a tubular bind-off for 1×1 rib step by step

Before we can start, we have to measure out a length of the working yarn, before breaking it. For this, a length of approx. 3 to 4 times the length of the edge that you want to bind-off is advised. However, if you want to bind-off a long edge like the body of a sweater, this means that the length of yarn can get very unyielding and prone to tangling. So when using a feltable yarn, I highly recommend only measuring out about twice the length needed. When the yarn tail runs out, a new length can be added by first using the braided join, followed by felting the join between your hands. This would have saved me quite aggravation on a recent sweater project!

When you have measured out the length of yarn, break it, and thread it onto the darning needle.

First, make sure you have your work in front of you on the left-hand needle, ready to work.
We’ll be working on binding the stitches off from right to left.
To start, insert the darning needle purl-wise into the first stitch on the needle, and pull the yarn through.
This first stitch is a knit stitch.
Next, hold the darning needle behind the work, insert it between the first 2 stitches on the needle from back to front, then twist it around to insert it knit-wise into the second stitch (purl stitch) on the needle.
Pull the yarn through.
Now move the darning needle back to the front of the work, insert it knit-wise in the first stitch on the needle (a knit stitch) and slip this stitch off the knitting needle.
Don’t pull the yarn through yet!
Still with the darning needle at the front of the work, insert it purl-wise into the second stitch on the needle (a knit stitch), skipping the first (purl) stitch.
Now pull the yarn through.
Next, insert the darning needle purl-wise into the first stitch (the purl stitch that was skipped in the previous step), and slip it off the knitting needle.
Pull the yarn through.
Next, hold the darning needle behind the work, insert it between the first 2 stitches on the needle from back to front, then twist it around to insert it knit-wise into the second stitch (purl stitch) on the needle. This is similar to step 3.
Pull the yarn through.
Repeat steps 4 to 7 until 3 stitches remain on the knitting needle.
In this tutorial I used a swatch with an odd number of stitches. If you have a piece with an even number of stitches, repeat steps 4 to 7 until 2 stitches remain.
To finish the bind-off work steps 4 to 6 once again (in case of an even number of stitches work only step 4 once more), so only 1 stitch remains, then insert the darning needle purl-wise into the last stitch and pull the yarn through.
This is the bind-off result, isn’t it neat?!

When viewed from the side, this is how the bind off edge looks:

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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tutorial – binding off in 1×1 rib

In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to work binding off in 1×1 rib patterning. In knitting patterns you may encounter the phrase “to bind off in pattern”, after working (k1, p1) ribbing. For example, after knitting the cuff of a sleeve or the hem of a sweater. The basic premise of it, is that you continue working the knit stitches as knits, and the purl stitches as purls while binding off. The resulting edge to your work seamlessly blends into the stitch pattern. Also, working the bind off itself in rib patterning ensures that it pulls in somewhat, as ribbing tends to do. This way, it won’t flare out, as it may do when working a non-patterned bind off.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Binding off in 1×1 rib step by step

To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off.
First, we’re going to knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle. To do so, insert the right-hand needle knit wise into the first stitch.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
… and pull it through the stitch.
To complete knitting the first stitch, slip it off the left-hand needle.
Next, we’re going to purl the new stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle. To do so, insert the right-hand needle purl wise into the first stitch.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
… and pull it through the stitch.
To complete purling the stitch, slip it off the left-hand needle.
Now insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the second stitch on the right-hand needle….
…., and pass this second stitch over the first one.
You have now bound-off a stitch!
Repeat steps 2-5 plus 10-11, followed by steps 6-9 plus 10-11 until all stitches have been bound-off.
It will look something like this:

That’s how binding off in 1×1 rib is done! And here is a picture of the resulting edge. Pretty, isn’t it?!

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tutorial – working the k-yo-k increase

Double increases aren’t as commonly used as basic single increases. Nevertheless, they absolutely have their place in the knitter’s toolkit. Double increases, especially the ones including yarn overs, are most often found in lace stitch patterns. So if you like knitting lace, double increases are something you’ll want to be familiar with. In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to work the increase that consists of working (1 knit, 1 yarn over, 1 knit) all in the same stitch, thus increasing 2 stitches where there was only 1 before. Abbreviated, this increase would be k-yo-k. This double increase is symmetrical and quite decorative, and for this reason also a very good choice to use for the central spine in top-down triangle shawls.

Below you can find how to work this increase step by step, so get your materials and follow along!

Materials

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 155 Vintage pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a k-yo-k step by step

Work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the double increase.
In this case, I want to work the increase in the center stitch of the swatch.
First, work a knit stitch in the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
Don’t let the stitch slide off the needle yet!
Now wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle for the “yo” part of the increase.
Then work another knit stitch.
To complete the increase, slip the stitch worked off the needle.
The result when a few more increase rows have been worked on the right side of the fabric.
Doesn’t it look pretty?

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tulpa – the hat

Having made a cowl to highlight this gorgeous red and pink hand spun yarn, I of course also had to make a matching hat! Make your version of Tulpa the hat in any gradient fingering or light fingering weight yarn. Whatever you choose: This is bound to be an entertaining knit with a stunning result!

This pattern contains instructions for 7 sizes, ranging from a finished size of 42.5 cm up to 63.5 cm (16.75 to 25 inches). The Tulpa hat is seamless and knitted from the bottom up. The instructions for the lace panel are provided both charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €5.00)

€

Difficulty level

The Tulpa hat is seamless and worked in the round from the bottom up. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, p2tog, skp, twisted stitches, yo, as well as centered, left-leaning, and right-leaning double decreases. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Sizes 1 (2, 3, 4) [5, 6, 7]:

Finished circumference of 42.5 (45.5, 49.5, 52.5) [56.5, 60.5, 63.5] cm or 16.75 (18, 19.5, 20.75) [22.25, 23.75, 25] inches.
Finished height of 17 (18.5, 19.5, 20.5) [21, 22, 25] cm or 6.75 (7.25, 7.75, 8) [8.25, 8.75, 9.75] inches.

When choosing your hat size, take 2.5-5 cm (1-2 inches) of negative ease into account for a fitted hat. For a more slouchy fit, take 0-5 cm (0-2 inches) of positive ease into account.

Pattern details

Tulpa the hat is written for a gauge of 23 sts / 39 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) over reverse stockinette after washing and gentle blocking.
Pattern language included: English.
Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size).

Yarn

86 (102, 118, 129) [139, 156, 182] m (94 (112, 129, 141) [153, 170, 200] yds) / 16 (19, 22, 24) [26, 29, 34] g 2-ply hand spun yarn 50% wool, 50% silk; 531 m (581 yds) / 99 g, with a WPI of 15.

Substitute any fingering or light fingering weight wool/silk blend gradient yarn for a similar result.

Materials

Needles in your preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round in the following sizes (or to match gauge):
- Size 2.5 mm (US 1 ½) – for ribbed brim
- Size 3 mm (US 2 ½) – for body of the hat
Yarn needle
1 end-of-round stitch marker
7 stitch markers

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tutorial – working a p3tog

Working a p3tog decrease - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In a previous post, I already showed you how to work the right-leaning double decrease, in which 3 stitches are reduced to one: the one abbreviated with “k3tog”. This stands for “knit 3 stitches together”. It’s a very easy and very common way to reduce the number of stitches in your project and make it narrower. It’s also often used in lace knitting.

But what when your lace also requires decreases to be worked on the wrong side of the fabric? This is where the purled decrease p3tog comes in! This decrease is worked on the wrong side and looks just like a k3tog when the result is viewed on the right side of the fabric. It’s a pretty straight-forward decrease to work; purl 3 stitches together, to decrease the total number of stitches with 2. It is just like making a regular purl stitch, but you work through three stitches instead of one.

Below you can find how to work this decrease step by step, so get your materials and follow along!

Materials

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 155 Vintage pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a p3tog step by step

Work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the decrease.
In this case, I want to work the decrease over the 3 stitches in the middle of the swatch.
Insert the needle
Now insert the needle purl wise through the first 3 stitches on the left-hand needle
Now wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle….
… and pull the yarn through the 3 stitches…
To complete the decrease, slip the 3 stitches worked off the needle.
The result
When viewed from the right side of the fabric, this decrease looks exactly like the right-leaning k3tog decrease!

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tutorial – working the Icelandic bind-off

In this tutorial, I’m going to show you how to work the Icelandic bind-off. I must admit, I’m not sure how it came by its name. I do know that it’s a bind-off that gives a very stretchy cord-like edge to your work. For this reason, it’s often advised for binding off long stretches of garter stitch. In this tutorial, however, I made a little swatch in stockinette to show you how to do it.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Marine.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the Icelandic bind-off step by step

To start, knit the first stitch on the needle.
Next, slip the stitch just worked from the right-hand needle back to the left-hand needle purl-wise.
The reason for slipping it back, purl-wise, is that we want this stitch to be mounted twisted.
Now insert the right-hand needle as if to purl into the first stitch on the left-hand needle….
… then insert the right-hand needle as if to knit into the next stitch on the needle.
This is how that looks:
Next, wrap your yarn around the needle…
…. and pull it through.
Next, slip both stitches off the needle.
Repeat steps 2-7 until only 1 stitch is left.
To completely finish the bind-off, break the yarn, and pull the end through this last loop.

And that’s all there is to it!

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tulpa

The Tulpa cowl was inspired by the hand spun yarn the cowl pictured is made in. It can, of course, also be worked in another fingering or light fingering weight yarn. Whatever you choose: This is bound to be an entertaining knit with a stunning result!

This pattern contains instructions for 3 sizes. The Tulpa cowl is seamless and knitted in the round. The instructions for the patterning are provided both charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €5.50)

€

Difficulty level

Tulpa is seamless and worked in the round from the bottom up. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, skp, twisted stitches, yo, as well as centered, left-leaning, and right-leaning double decreases. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Finished size S (M, L): 70.5 (84.5, 98.5) cm / 27 ¾ (33 ¼, 38 ¾) inches circumference and 38.5 cm / 15 ¼ inches high. The sample shown is in size M.

The size can further be adjusted by changing the number of cast-on stitches to any multiple of 26.

Pattern details

Tulpa is written for a gauge of 18.5 sts / 32.2 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) over pattern after washing and gentle blocking.
Pattern language included: English.
Digital PDF has 5 pages (letter size).

Yarn

316 (375, 440) m (346 (411, 481) yds) / 59 (70, 82) g 2-ply hand spun yarn [50% wool, 50% silk; 531 m (581 yds) / 99 g], with a WPI of 15.

Substitute any fingering or light fingering weight wool/silk blend gradient yarn for a similar result.

Materials

For the sample cowl in size M, a 4 mm (US 6) circular needle was used, 60 cm (24 inches) length suggested. Choose a needle size to match gauge and a length appropriate for the chosen size.
Yarn needle.
1 end-of-round stitch marker.
5 (6, 7) stitch markers to separate repeats of the patterning (optional).

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tutorial – working the bunny ears back decrease

Earlier, I already showed you how to work the bunny ears decrease. In this tutorial, I’m going to show the bunny ears back decrease, which is similar to the bunny ears decrease. It’s also a symmetrical way of decreasing 3 stitches to only 2, called this way, because the result somewhat looks like 2 bunny ears “hugging” the resulting 2 stitches. However, instead of the “ears” pointing outwards, they point inwards.

Part of this decrease is working a left leaning single decrease of your choice. I prefer skp, so that’s what I’ll be showing in this tutorial. But it can be changed to ssk or any other left leaning decrease you prefer.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Marine.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the bunny ears back decrease step by step

First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the decrease.
See those first 3 stitches on the left-hand needle? That’s where I’ll be making the bunny ears back decrease.
Next, work the left leaning decrease of your preference over the first 2 stitches.
I’ve worked a skp, you can see the result in the picture below.
Now take a good look at the decrease you worked.
Do you see the 2 stitches that were decreased to 1, with the one on the left “covered’ by the other one?
Now insert the left-hand needle underneath the left loop of that lower stitch.
Next, work a k2tog over the first 2 stitches on the left-hand needle as the final step.
Below, you can see the result: 3 stitches that have been symmetrically decreased to 2 stitches.

And that’s all there is to it!

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tutorial – working a tubular CO in the round for 1×1 rib

The tubular cast on creates a rounded edge of your knitting project, as well as being very stretchy. This makes it a very good cast on for edges that are prone to wear and tear. And, of course, where the stretch is useful. Think, for example, of top-down socks, and the start of a bottom-up hat. In this example I’m casting on for a top-down sweater.

Of course, there are many ways to work a tubular cast on. This particular version is for working in the round in k1, p1 rib patterning.

Materials used

Yarn: Shetland Lambswool from De Schapekop, a yarn very similar to Jamieson & Smith 2ply Jumper Weight, and no. 5 crochet thread or other smooth waste yarn.

Needles: KnitPro Zing Fixed Circular Needles. In this tutorial, I used the 2.5 mm (US 1 1/2) and the 3.5 mm (US 4) size. Both with a cable length of 80 cm (32 inches).

Other materials: a crochet hook, and a stitch marker.

Working a tubular CO in the round for 1×1 rib step by step

First, using the larger size needles, the smooth waste yarn and the provisional cast on of your choice, cast on half as many stitches as you need according to your pattern.
In other words: if you need 80 stitches, cast on 40. I used the crochet provisional cast on for this step.
Now, using the smaller size needle and the working yarn, work (k1, yo) across all provisionally cast on stitches.
After this row is finished, as shown below, it’s time to join into the round.
The last worked stitch is a yarn over, so make sure it stays intact when joining into the round.
Here I’ve rearranged my stitches to continue knitting in the round, magic loop style.
Before joining, I made sure that my stitches weren’t twisted, and I’ve added the stitch marker to indicate the beginning (and end) of a round. Also, do you see that the yarn over is still there, behind the stitch marker?
In this step, work (knit 1, slip 1 purl wise with the yarn in front) to the end of the round.
In other words: knit every stitch that was knit in the previous round, and slip every yarn over. Below, is how it looks after this round is completed.
Next, work (slip 1 purl wise with the yarn in the back, purl 1) to the end of the round.
In other words: slip every stitch that was knit in the previous round, and purl every stitch that was slipped. This is how it then looks:
In this step, work (knit 1, slip 1 purl wise with the yarn in front) to the end of the round.
In other words: knit every stitch that was slipped in the previous round, and slip every stitch that was purled.
Now we repeat step 6: work (slip 1 purl wise with the yarn in the back, purl 1) to the end of the round.
In other words: slip every stitch that was knit in the previous round, and purl every stitch that was slipped.
In this step, it’s time to unravel the provisional cast on
Starting at the end that you indicated when doing the provisional cast on, undo the knot and gently pull the cast on loose.
This is the cast-on result, ready for further knitting (k1, p1) rib in the round (using magic loop) as described in your pattern!

A comparison

I thought it would be useful to compare the tubular cast on with a regular knitted on cast on one. So, I continued the piece above with another few rounds in (k1, p1) rib until it measured 1.5 cm / 0.6″.

Now take a look at the following picture. The lower neckband has a regular knitted-on cast on, followed by 1×1 rib for 1.5 cm / 0.6″. The one at the top has the tubular cast on in the round with 1×1 rib. Both pieces are worked in the same yarn, and with the same needle size.

I think the neckband with the tubular cast on looks much better, with its rounded edge. It is also much less likely to give issues with wear & tear, because there are no single strands of yarn right at that edge. What do you think?

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