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tutorial – 7 into 9 gathered stitch

The 7 into 9 gathered stitch takes 7 stitches, and increases these to 9 stitches. The increase is done in such a way, that it looks like the fabric is “gathered” in the middle. You may encounter gathers in Estonian lace knitting, they are a distinctive feature of this type of lace. Gathers come in many different configurations. In some versions, the stitch counts stay the same, in some the stitch counts decrease or increase.

Read on to see how the 7 into 9 gathered stitch is worked.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the 7 into 9 gathered stitch step by step

To start, work as instructed by your pattern until the point where you want to make the gather.
First, insert your right-hand needle into the 4th stitch on the left-hand needle as if to purl.
Next, pull this stitch over the 3 stitches near the tip, and off the needle.
Repeat step 3 another 3 times for a total of 4 stitches that are pulled over the set of 3 stitches near the tip of the needle.
Next, insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle as if to knit…
… wrap the yarn around the needle …
… and pull it through. Do not slip the stitch off the needle yet!
Next, wrap the yarn around the needle.
Repeat steps 5, 6 and 7, and slip the original stitch off the needle. In essence, you’re working a (k1, yo, k1) increase into the stitch. Check below for the result after this last step.
Repeat steps 5 to 9 for each of the other 2 wrapped stitches. In other words: after these steps, you’ve worked (k1, yo, k1) in each of the 3 wrapped stitches, bringing the total stitch count up to 9 stitches.
After this, continue with your knitting as instructed in the pattern.

View the result, when the row has been finished and a purl row has also been worked, below. I think it’s pretty neat!

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

tutorial – 7 into 9 gathered stitch Read More »

diamanten

Diamanten is a semicircle Pi shawl, worked in a luxury hand-dyed merino and tencel yarn. The combination of simple stockinette and slip-stitch diamond patterning really lets this tonal yarn shine! However, This shawl is equally lovely when worked in solid colors or even variegated ones.

This shawl is worked from the top-down and is started with a garter stitch tab. The instructions for the patterning are, of course, both charted and fully written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.95)

€

Difficulty level

The Diamanten half-circle shawl is knit from the top down, starting with a garter tab cast-on. Stitches used include knit, purl, m1bl, m1p, k2tog, and the k1 under loose strands stitch. This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Finished dimensions of the sample shawl: Span width of 193 cm (76 inches) and a depth of 73 cm (28 ¾ inches), measured after blocking.

Adjust the size of this shawl by using lighter or heavier yarn and/or working fewer (or more) repeats of the various sections. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

Gauge: Approx. 13 sts / 21 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical for this design but should give you a fabric that you like with the yarn used.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 5 pages (letter size)

Yarn

Hearthside Fibers Crystal (50% Merino, 50% Tencel; 377 m (412 yds)/ 113 g) in the following colors and amounts:

C1: 377 m (412 yds)/ 113 g in “Lake”
C2: 377 m (412 yds)/ 113 g in “Vermont”

Substitute a tonal fingering to sport weight yarn for a similar result.

Materials

Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl.
Yarn needle
Stitch markers (optional, for use between repeats of the diamond patterning)

diamanten Read More »

stitch pattern – St. John’s wort stitch

St. John's wort stitch by La Visch Designs

The St John’s wort stitch is a traditional lace knitting stitch. It combines a 3 to 2 decrease on the right side of the fabric, with a strategically placed yarn over increase on the following wrong side of the fabric. Because of this, you’ll see that the stitch count decreases on the right side rows, and increases again on the wrong side rows. As far as lace patterning goes, this one is pretty intuitive to knit: The yarn over always has to be worked between the 2 wrapped stitches of the 3 to 2 decrease. This makes it pretty easy to read the knitting, and see which stitch needs to go where.

The stitch pattern requires a multiple of 6 + 2 stitches, and is worked over 4 rows. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch. These are not included in the stitch pattern description.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl
psso – pass the slipped stitch over
RS / WS – right side / wrong side
rep – repeat
sl – slip the indicated stitch knit-wise to the right-hand needle
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over

St. John’s Wort stitch

Row 1 (RS): K1, * (sl 1, k2, psso), k3; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 2 (WS): P1, * p4, yo, p1; rep from * to 1 st before end, p1.
Row 3: K1, * k3, (sl 1, k2, psso); rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 4: P1, * p1, yo, p4; rep from * to 1 st before end, p1.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

St. John's Wort stitch from the RS — The stitch as seen from the RS.

St. John's Wort stitch from the WS — The stitch as seen from the WS.

stitch pattern – St. John’s wort stitch Read More »

tutorial – working a centered 5 to 1 decrease

A centered decrease, as shown in this tutorial, reduces 5 stitches down to 1 stitch in a symmetrical way. This decrease results in a strong vertical decrease line that doesn’t slant to either the left or the right. A useful decrease to have in your knitter’s toolkit! Read on to see how it’s worked.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the centered 5 to 1 decrease step by step

To start, work as instructed by your pattern until the point where you want to make the decrease.
First, insert your right-hand needle into the first 3 stitches on the left-hand needle as if to knit.
Next, slip these 3 stitches from the left-hand to the right-hand needle.
Now, insert your right-hand needle into the first 2 stitches on the left-hand needle as if to knit.
Next, wrap the yarn around the needle …
… and pull it through to work a k2tog. Slip the resulting stitch to the right-hand needle.
Next, insert the left-hand needle into the 3 stitches that were slipped earlier, and pass them over the k2tog.
The result after this last step can be seen below.
After this, continue with your knitting as instructed in the pattern.

The result, when the row has been finished and a purl row has also been worked, is as follows. I think it’s pretty neat!

tutorial – working a centered 5 to 1 decrease Read More »

stitch pattern – staggered eyelet stitch

Staggered eyelet stitch - by La Visch Designs

The staggered eyelet stitch consists of alternating eyelets on a stockinette background. It’s a quite simple stitch pattern, with a gorgeous effect when used all-over in a design. Especially if you don’t want to take away too much attention from the yarn. This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches plus 2 stitches, and in an eight-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 3 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch. These are not included in the stitch pattern description.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
p – purl
RS / WS – right side / wrong side
rep – repeat
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over

Staggered eyelet stitch

Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 and all following WS rows: Purl.
Row 3: K1, yo, k2tog, *k2, yo, k2tog; rep from * to 3 sts before end, k3.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 7: K3, *yo, k2tog, k2; rep from * to 3 sts before end, yo, k2tog, k1.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

The staggered eyelet stitch from the RS — The stitch as seen from the RS.

The staggered eyelet stitch from the WS — The stitch as seen from the WS.

stitch pattern – staggered eyelet stitch Read More »

tutorial – working a (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase

Recently, it was pointed out to me, that in the Scalloped edge tutorial, I don’t show step by step how to work the increases needed. So, time for a new tutorial! With the (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase, 1 stitch is increased to 5 by working [k1, yo] twice in the same loop, followed by another k1. That said, if you’d like to increase 7 or even 9 stitches instead of 5, just work more repeats of [k1, yo] into the original stitch.

Let’s get our materials and get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase step by step

To start, work as instructed by your pattern until the point where you want to make the increase.
First, insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle as if to knit.
Next, wrap the yarn around the needle …
… and pull it through to work a k1. Do not slip the loop off the needle yet!
Now, wrap the yarn around the needle again.
This is one of the yo’s in the increase.
To work the next set of (k1, yo), I find it helps to put my finger on the last yo loop already on the needle. This will keep it from sliding off.
Again, insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle as if to knit.
Next, wrap the yarn around the needle …
… and pull it through to work a k1. Do not slip the loop off the needle yet!
Repeat steps 5 to 9 once more to create all the extra stitches needed.
After this, you can slide the original stitch off the left-hand needle to conclude the increase.
Below, you can see the result of the (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase.

tutorial – working a (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase Read More »

stitch pattern – spiral stitch

The spiral stitch is a stitch pattern, that uses cleverly placed knits and purls, to make the impression of a spiral of texture winding around columns of stockinette stitch. This stitch pattern is worked in a multiple of 7 stitches. Please note that in the above picture, I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl
rep – repeat

Spiral stitch instructions

Row 1 (right side): P2, k2, *k2, p3, k2; rep from * to 3 sts before end, k2, p1. (14 sts)
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, p2, *p1, k4, p2; rep from * to 4 sts before end, p1, k3.
Row 3: P1, k1, p2, *k2, p2, k1, p2; rep from * to 3 sts before end, k2, p1.
Row 4: K1, p1, k1, *k1, p2, k2, p1, k1; rep from * to 4 sts before end, k1, p2, k1.
Row 5: P1, k3, *p4, k3; rep from * to 3 sts before end, p3.
Row 6: K2, p1, *p3, k3, p1; rep from * to 4 sts before end, p3, k1.
Row 7: P1, k3, *k2, p2, k3; rep from * to 3 sts before end, k2, p1.
Row 8: K1, p2, * p3, k2, p2; rep from * to 4 sts before end, p3, k1.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern.

The spiral stitch as shown from the front:

The spiral stitch as shown from the back:

stitch pattern – spiral stitch Read More »

tutorial – working a Russian picot bind-off

Recently, I showed you how to work a variation of a regular picot bind-off. However, sometimes you just want the stretch of a Russian bind-off, and combine it with the added pizzazz of some picots. That was exactly the scenario I encountered when I was working on my Framboos shawl. So, I tried out a way to combine the two in a Russian picot bind-off. In this tutorial, I’ll show you what I did.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the Russian picot bind-off step by step

To start, knit 1 stitch.
In this example, I’m using a swatch from a stitch pattern that will be on this website soon.
Knit another stitch.
Slip both stitches from the right-hand needle back to the left-hand needle.
If you insert the left-hand needle as pictured, everything is already positioned correctly for the next step.
Knit the stitches together through the back loop.
Repeat steps 2-4 another 5 times.
This is basically the regular Russian bind-off. You can adjust the number of times to make the distance between the picots larger or smaller. End this step by slipping the remaining stitch from the right-hand needle back to the left-hand needle.
Cast-on 3 stitches using the knitted on cast-on.
Knit 1 stitch.
Next, knit another stitch…
…and pass the stitch already on the right-hand needle over the one just worked.
Repeat steps 8 and 9 twice more. This is what makes the picot.
Repeat steps 2-10 until all stitches have been bound off.

The result of the Russian picot bind-off looks like this:

tutorial – working a Russian picot bind-off Read More »

stitch pattern – pebble stitch

The pebble stitch combines strategically placed increases and decreases with regular knit and purl stitches. This makes it both very easy and fast to work, and gives lovely texture to your project. Please note, that due to the decreases in one of the pattern rows, the stitch count changes. They are brought back to the cast-on number of stitches on the following row, though.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 2 stitches, and in a four-row repeat. When worked with edge stitches as shown here (2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch), you could consider to only work the stitches inside the repeat as shown below.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color 128 Lime Green.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
m1r – increase by lifting the thread between the stitch just knit and the next one from the back with your left needle, then knit into the front of the loop
p – purl
st(s) – stitch(es)

Pebble stitch

Row 1 (right side): Knit.

Row 2 (wrong side): Purl.

Row 3: K1, *k2tog; rep from * to last st before end, k1.

Row 4: K1,*m1r, k1; rep from * to last st before end, k1.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Pwbblw atitch on the RS — Pebble stitch as seen from the right side

Pebble stitch from the WS — Pebble stitch as seen from the wrong side

stitch pattern – pebble stitch Read More »

tutorial – working a picot bind-off

There are quite a few different ways to work a picot bind-off. That’s not even counting the variations coming from different distances between picots, and the sizing of the picots. In this tutorial, I’ll show you a variation of the picot bind-off that consists of binding of stitches the traditional way, combined with strategically cast-on stitches. Also, it can, of course, be used to bind-off a project. But the picot bind-off can also be worked on picked-up stitches or on the stitches from a provisional cast-on. The sky is the limit!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 133 Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the picot bind-off step by step

Take your project when you’re ready to start your bind-off. You can start as soon as the last row of your work has been knit, and after your work has been turned when working flat back and forth.
In this example, I’m using a swatch from a previous tutorial.
To start, knit 2 stitches.
Insert the left-hand needle into the stitch first worked…
… and lift it over the second stitch.
You have now bound-off 1 stitch.
Knit 1 stitch and repeat steps 3 and 4 to bind-off another stitch.
Next, cast-on 2 stitches using the knitted-on cast-on.
To do so, insert your needle into the stitch, wrap the yarn around it and pull it through the stitch. Then, instead of slipping the original stitch off the needle as you’d do when working a knit stitch, slip the new loop onto the left-hand needle to create a new stitch. Repeat once to get 2 new stitches.
To finish the first picot, work step 5 a total of 4 times.
Continue working steps 6 and 7 until your work has been completely bound-off.

When viewed from the back, it looks like this:

The result of the picot bind-off, viewed from the back

tutorial – working a picot bind-off Read More »