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tutorial – stripes in crochet

Stripes in crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Making stripes is the simplest way to use color in your project. This way you can give it that little bit extra. This works especially well with a simple stitch pattern, such as single crochet, half double crochet and double crochet. But what are the things to pay attention to when making stripes in crochet?

In this post, I will tell and show you some things with respect to striping technique in crochet. Please note that American crochet terminology is used in this tutorial.

Changing colors the tidy way

When you crochet your rows as usual and switch colors after completion of a row, you will see that a bit of the old color appears in the new row. To prevent this, do the following:

1. Crochet to the very end of your row, but do not complete the very last stitch. In this example of hdc fabric, it means that I have three loops left on the hook and have not finished this last stitch by pulling the yarn through these stitches.

2. Next, pick up the yarn in your other color and pull through the last loops to complete the stitch.

Stripes in crochet without breaking your yarn

Weaving in ends is something most people do not find pleasure in. Therefore, it is good to know that it is also possible to crochet stripes without breaking the yarn. To do this, you just let the yarn in the color you are not using for that stripe alongside the edge of the work. This method works best with an even number of rows and using only two colors.

1. Work as usual until the end of your row, but do not complete the final stitch as described above. Pick up the other colored yarn from the side of the work, where you left it. Finish the last stitch with the new color. Make sure not to pull this thread too tight!

2. In the case of a wider stripe, you do not want your contrast color yarn to form a long loop on the edge of your piece. To avoid this, do the following: Whenever both colors of yarn are on the same side of your work, you twist them. This “catches” the thread of contrasting color behind that of the color where you are currently working with.

3. When switching to another color, do it the same way as described above under 1.

And this is how to work stripes in crochet!

One last tip: Only crochet stripes without breaking the yarn if the stripes are not too wide. With wider stripes, it can be difficult to keep the tension of the thread running along on the side just right. Often it just gets too tight or too loose. The result in these cases is usually better if you indeed just break the yarn.

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tutorial: contrast in color

It seems so simple, but contrast in color really is a thing for color work projects: one combination of colors can very much differ from the other. One aspect of color theory in relation to knitting and crochet consists of the contrast of the colors chosen. You can go for big contrasts, or just for subtle differences if you so desire.

But how can you tell what kind of contrast you have with the yarns and colors chosen?

Luckily there is a very handy trick to determine whether a particular color combination has big contrast or only a little. To do so, just take a photo of the yarns together and make the picture black and white!

Take for example the yarns below, quite different from each other, don’t you think?

Contrast in color - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

The black and white version, however, tells a different tale!

It turns out that the light blue version combined with the lilac hardly differ in contrast. This means that when you combine both in a project, the colors won’t really “pop”. An excellent choice, if that is your intention. If on the contrary a lot of contrast is desired, the dark blue combined with the light blue or the lilac would be a far better choice.

Try finding the contrast in color out for yourself!

Want to try some simple color work yourself? Take a look at the Pijl hat (also pictured above) and the Bloem hat!

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tutorial: Russian bind-off

You probably already know that there are many different ways to bind off. A problem that sometimes occurs is that the bind off too tight. That is when you get the sweaters were no head fits through the neck opening, or those toe-up knitted socks where no foot can be put in and lace shawls that can’t be blocked out to reveal their patterning.

Of course, you can choose to go up in needle size when binding off. However, a too loose bind off is not pretty either… What to do? In these cases, my go-to bind off is the Russian bind-off. This is an elegant way to get a very elastic edge on your piece. This is often important to me because I knit a lot of lace shawls.

In patterns you may encounter the following instructions for this type of bind off:
Russian bind-off: K1, * k1, slip stitches from right-hand back to left-hand needle and k2tog tbl. Repeat from * to end.

The Russian bind-off step by step

1. Knit the first stitch.

2. Knit the next stitch

3. Slip the two stitches on your right-hand needle back to your left-hand needle.

4. Knit these two stitches together through the back loop.

5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 until you have reached the end. The result on a piece in stockinette stitch will look like this:

Tip

The Russian bind-off can for example also be used to bind off in rib pattern. You only need to adjust step 2 of the above instructions: Knit the knit stitches that you encounter and purl the purl stitches. That’s all there is to it!

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national spinning day 2015

October 3^rd it was the Dutch National Spinning Day again, also affectionately called LSD which is short for “Nationale Spin Dag”. Over 200 women and some men traveled to Conference center Mennorode with their spindles and spinning wheels to spend a day together. And yours truly was there as well for the very first time!

The national spinning day is organized annually by The Dutch National Spinning Group. The Spinning Group brings spinners in contact with one another since 1999 and also collects and provides information about spinning materials, techniques and the further processing of spun yarns.

Preparation

First, I had to think about which spinning wheel I would take with me. I first thought of my beautiful Saxony wheel Noortje. But Noortje does not quite fit in my car and is somewhat temperamental to spin on. So better to go for one of my trusty castle wheels “schippertje”.

Of course, a decision also had to be made on the spinning project to bring. After some deep digging into my stash, I found these gorgeous self-carded batts: A blend of gray and blue merino, blended with tussah silk.

It’s LSD time!

Because all the fun would start around 9.00 in the morning, the alarm was put on the usual weekday schedule. After a quick breakfast, I left my husband and children to dedicate my day to everything related to spinning. Of course my schippertje first had to be secured in my car. Then I went on my way to Mennorode in Elspeet!

After having installed myself in the main conference room, I took a good look around me: So many different spinning wheels! The hall was soon completely filled, with an amazing number of spinning people together, truly a sight to behold.

After the opening, there was first a market with all kinds of spinning supplies. I had not realized that it would only be possible to use cash there. That got me in somewhat of a pickle: so many things and no means to bring it home with me! Fortunately, the reception of Mennorode was able to help me out, so I could buy the things that made my spinners heart beat a little faster.

After lunch, which was very good indeed, there were workshops for those who had subscribed. I myself just decided to socialize and spin with the other ladies. I had loads of fun and managed to get quite a bit of spinning done.

All in all a very nice National Spinning Day, I’m going again next year for sure!

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paris pillbox hat & cowl

Happily Hooked Magazine Issue 20 is all about Vintage-Inspired Designs with Contemporary Flair. And both my Paris Pillbox Hat & Cowl are an exclusive feature!

The hat in this set is in the pillbox shape reminiscent of the Forties and Fifties of the previous century. A most stylish way of keeping your head warm! To complete the set there is also a matching cowl.

These designs are now also available directly through La Visch Designs.

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asymmetrical wedge shawl

In the December 2015 issue of I Like Crochet the magic of the winter season is captured in sparkly new patterns to crochet your dream Christmas. For the “baby it’s warm inside” section in this issue, I have designed the Asymmetrical Wedge Shawl. Pictures courtesy of I like Crochet Magazine.

This pattern is now also available through La Visch Designs!

This wedge shawl has a distinct asymmetrical shape, setting it apart from more traditional crochet shawls. Make a fast, large and cozy shawl in an aran weight yarn as described here, or make it a scarf in a fingering weight yarn. Because this wedge shawl is worked in a single piece from the tip up, it can easily be made in any size you want.

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brocaat

Brocaat is an elegant and fast to knit scarf, designed to use only one ball of super bulky weight yarn with long color runs. Make it nice and long so it can be worn doubled up.

The description of the lace in this pattern is provided both fully charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €5.50)

€

Difficulty level

Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, skp, yo and a centered double decrease. This pattern is suitable for the beginning lace knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size – measurements: 18 cm (7 inches) wide and 170 cm (67 inches) long, excluding fringe.

Pattern details

Brocaat is worked flat.
Written for a gauge of approx. 11 sts / 15 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over lace pattern, after blocking.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
Digital PDF has 3 pages (A4 size)

Materials

184 m (201 yds) / 100 g Scheepjes Vinci [60% wool, 40% acrylic; 184 m (201 yds) per 100 g]. Substitute any super bulky weight yarn with long color runs for a similar result.
Needles in your preferred style in size 8 mm (US 11).
Yarn needle
Crochet hook to attach fringe

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types of spinning wheels

I find spinning to be a very relaxing pastime. Do you think Queen Victoria (pictured below), also spun for relaxation? In my first post on the anatomy of spinning wheels, I told you about the various parts most spinning wheels have in common. Now that you know something about the different parts, I can also tell you about the various types of spinning wheels out there.

Mind you, this is not an exhaustive list, but rather a very rough classification based on the appearance of most common western spinning wheels. Wheels like the Indian Charkha (used to spin cotton) I left out of this overview.

Saxony wheel

Saxon spinning wheels are characterized by a horizontally oriented table with the wheel on one side and the spin head with the flyer on the other side. The table itself usually is placed a bit on an angle. The spinning wheel shown below is a typical example.

This particular wheel is indeed a very special one. Noortje (yes I have given my spinning wheel a name, a wheel with character deserves a name!) is in fact handmade by the grandfather of an acquaintance: Wim Vogel. He was a carpenter and made in the 70’s two spinning wheels in his spare time, based on plans by the Norske Husflidsforening. Noortje is one of those two wheels.

Castle wheel

This type of wheel has a vertical structure with first the table top, then the wheel and above this the flyer assembly. Because of this construction, this type of spinning wheel requires relatively little space. This was the feature that ensured that these spinning wheels were very popular with barge captain’s wives. On ships, room happens to be a scarce commodity. This is also the reason that this type of spinning wheel is in the Netherlands, also known as “schippertje.” This translates roughly to “little skipper”. Some modern castle type wheels can even be folded for compact storage or travel.

My schippertje picture here is Dutch-made: It was made by Jan Lobs from Oostvoorne. Lobs had in the 70’s a spinning wheel atelier where these wheels with their distinctive design were made. Being very robust, I encounter these wheels regularly on the Dutch version of Craigs List (Markplaats). I myself have two wheels of this model.

Norwegian spinning wheel

This type of wheel is very similar to the Saxony spinning wheels. Norwegian spinning wheels have usually also a big wheel, 3 to 4 legs in combination with a horizontal build-up with the flyer next to the wheel. The table is however entirely horizontally and is sometimes combined with a smaller upper table in which the flyer assembly can be found.

Modern spinning wheels

Besides the already mentioned types of spinning wheels, there are of course also the modern wheels. In these wheels, modern technology is combined with the traditional principles of spinning. Think for instance of foldable wheels to make them easier to carry and travel with them. Wheels fitted with modern (ball) bearings so they make for light treadling and hardly any noise. Wheels that automatically change the position of where the thread is wound on the bobbin. This is very handy because then you don’t need to stop to pass the thread through the next flight hook.

These wheels often have a very traditional look. Because of it, they usually fall in one of the aforementioned categories of the various types of spinning wheels. There are also spinning wheels with a totally different appearance. Spinning wheels made of plastic, or for example electrically powered wheels for those individuals who have less use of their legs. An overview of variations can be found in the picture below.

Modern spinning wheels come in so many variations, that there really is no common appearance. And that really makes it so much fun!

In a next post, I will consider the various working principles on which most spinning wheels operate. Stay tuned!

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making a braided join

Earlier, in my blog about the Russian join, I’ve already shown you how my favorite way to attach a new ball of yarn works. But how do you join new yarn just as invisible and strong when you do not have a needle with you?

In that situation, I like to use the braided method where the old and new yarn are braided together. Just as with the Russian method this makes a very strong join, which remains in place even with slick yarns like satin and mercerized cotton. Also, after you have complete your project no ends are to be woven in, as these are already woven in when making the join.

A prerequisite for this method is that your yarn consists of at least two plies. Why is this important, you will see later in this blog. The braided join makes for a locally thicker thread, but this does not need to be a problem, because it is often not very visible.

The braided join step by step

In this example I have used two different colors of yarn to show you exactly how to work this type of join.

1. The two threads to join, the pink yarn comes from the project, the yellow-green is the new ball of yarn.

2. In the “old” yarn loosen the plies over a length of approx. 10 cm (4 inch) and divide into two. Place the new yarn on top of it as shown in the photograph.

3. Hold the threads together at the top. I like to hold them between my forefinger and middle finger, but you can also use a paperclip or something similar.

4. Braid the three pieces of yarn (two of the “old” and one of the new ball of wool) together to join them.

5. Braid until you reach the end of the three threads, you have a braided portion of about 5 up to 7.5 cm (2 to 3 inch).

And now you can continue knitting again. As you see in the picture below, there are three stitches in this sample in which both threads are visible. However, if you join the same color of yarn, the join would be hardly visible in the finished piece.

The back of the work looks like in the photo below. The loose ends I usually leave until after washing and possibly blocking the work. Then it’s just a matter of (carefully!) cutting them off.

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making a Russian join

Whether you knit or crochet, we all have to deal with it: Joining new yarn when you have reached the end of a ball of wool. Of course, you can just change balls when you’re at the end of a row, but what if you work in the round? Or when you only have a limited amount of yarn and you really want to use it all? Just switching and tying a knot is something I never do. I think the risks are simply too great, there isn’t much needed for a knot to become undone and make a hole in my carefully-made piece. No, I much prefer using the Russian join instead.

The Russian join makes a very strong join, which also remains in place with very smooth and slippery yarns like cotton. This method also ensures that after completion of your project there are no ends to weave in. These are, after all already woven in when making the join. The only drawback is that this join locally produces a thicker thread. However, this does not need to be a problem, because it’s often not very visible.

The Russian join step by step

In this example, I have used yarn in two different colors to illustrate how this method works.

1. Thread the yarn end from the first ball through the eye of the needle.

2. Zigzag with the needle back through the thread for approximately 5 to 6 centimeters (about 2 inches), in such a way that your yarn forms a loop. Through this loop, the yarn of the new ball will be threaded later on. It helps to put a finger through the loop while pulling your needle through, to make sure it doesn’t close up on you.

3. Thread the yarn end from the second ball through the eye of the needle.

4. Insert the needle through the loop you created in step 2 above.

5. Now zigzag back with the needle through the second thread for about 5 to 6 centimeters (about 2 inches). Again, it may help to put a finger through the loop while pulling your needle through, to make sure it doesn’t close up on you.

6. Pull gently on both ends to reduce the loops and pull the yarn smooth.

And now, you can just continue knitting! As you see in the picture below, the join in the knitting is (apart of course from the difference in color) barely visible.

The back of the work looks like the photo below. The remaining yarn ends I usually leave until after washing and possibly blocking the workpiece. Then it’s just a matter of (carefully!) cutting them off.

One last tip

As noted, the Russian join gives a place in your work where the yarn is locally thicker. You can avoid this when your yarn is composed of several threads twined together. Cut a small portion of these threads away, then proceed with the join as usual with the locally thinner piece of yarn. In the picture below I have removed one of the totals of three strands.

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