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knitting history

A woman wearing a light blue cablesd sweater

It is quite possible that you are not the only one in your immediate family, who knits or crochets. Perhaps a mother who likes to click the needles. Or maybe a grandmother who regularly made you a sweater when you were little. In this blog I want to share a bit of my personal knitting history with you.

My grandmother was a good knitter. Unfortunately I haven’t experienced this first hand, because she died very young, only a couple of weeks after I was born. All these years my mother had been saving a big pile of sweaters made by my grandmother. Then, about 35 years later my mom visited me and brought along all these sweaters with the question if I would like some. The rest she would finally let go.

One of the sweaters really does suit me, is very much my style and one I have since worn every winter. That’s the sweater you see pictured above. One of the other sweaters was not wearable for me, but so beautifully made that I could not find it in my heart to throw it out. A gorgeous fair isle sweater made in several shades of blue.

A felted fair-isle sweater in shades of blue and white

And suddenly I had the wonderful idea to use this sweater to make something for my mother, so she would still have a tangible reminder of her mother’s knitting. My mother did keep these sweaters for all these years for a reason after all. My thoughts went out to making cushions, with the front of each cushion consisting of a panel of this sweater.

In preparation I had undone all the seams and felted the sweater panels. However, once it came down to cutting the cushion pieces and sewing them I got cold feet… I have absolutely no experience with sewing and was terrified to ruin this irreplaceable piece of felt. After some thinking I put a note about it with a plea for help in the”DutchKarma Swap Group” on Ravelry. A very sweet lady came to my rescue and transformed my grandmother’s sweater into these lovely pillow covers:

And my mother? She did not expect this gift at all and was extremely happy with this piece of our shared knitting history!

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tutorial: knitting M1L and M1R increases

Many knitting patterns do not consist of rectangles but have a different shape. Think of a hat or a triangular shawl. To make contours in your work, you can make it wider by increasing your number of stitches, and narrower by decreasing them. When knitting lace both increases and decreases are indispensable. Knowing about knitting M1L and M1R increases, therefore, comes in very handy.

Being able to work a wide variety of increases is, therefore, a very important skill for a knitter. In this post, I’m going to show you how to make increases by lifting the horizontal thread between the stitch just knit and the next one. These increases are referred to as “make one left” (abbreviated M1L) and “make one right” (abbreviated M1R).

Left? Right?

Now you may wonder what is meant by “left” and “right” in this context. Depending on how exactly you make the increase, it leans to the left or to the right, relative to the surrounding “normal” stitches. This can be very useful in, for example, a sweater where increases on both sides of the neck opening are needed. In this particular case, it may be visually pleasing to be symmetrical.

Sometimes there is no indication of a direction given in the pattern, usually denoted by plain “M1”. If that is the case, you can choose which version you like best, or easiest to make.

Knitting a M1R increase step by step

In this variation, you increase by lifting the thread between the stitch just knit and the next one from the back with your left needle, then knit (RS) or purl (WS) into the front of the loop. The resulting extra stitch leans to the right.

1. Lift the thread between the stitch just knit and the next one from the back with your left needle.

2. Knit (RS) or purl (WS) into the front of the loop.

3. The result of the right-leaning M1R.

Knitting a M1L increase step by step

In this variation, you increase by lifting the thread between the stitch just knit and the next one from the front with your left needle, then knit (RS) or purl (WS) into the back of the loop. The resulting extra stitch leans to the left.

1. Lift the thread between the stitch just knit and the next one from the front with your left needle.

2. Knit (RS) or purl (WS) into the back of the loop. The latter may be a bit challenging, but as with everything practice makes perfect.

3. The result of the left-leaning M1L.

And this is how knitting M1L and M1R increases is done!

The M1 increase really is one of my favorites, not in the least because they give an almost invisible result. See for example in the picture below. In this small swatch, there are three increase rows worked every other row, at a distance of 3 stitches from the garter stitch edge.

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gymir – free pattern

Let’s knit extreme! In earlier posts I already showed you how to make yourself huge broom stick knitting needles and also how I prepared my roving to be able to knit with it. And now it’s finally time to make the next step: I’m ready to go make a project with it!

Considerations when extreme knitting
When knitting a pattern on such a large scale, there are several things that have to be taken into account. For example, it is often not possible to use a large stitch pattern where one repetition requires a large number of stitches and rows: unless you are making a blanket your piece is very likely just not big enough to knit one of multiple repeats of the pattern.

In addition, the impact of extremely large stitches is on its own already very big. Adding a complex stitch pattern to that can be just too much for the eye. A simple stitch pattern with a limited number of stitches and rows is therefore my motto.

Extreme knitting and lace
Lace patterns are indeed very beautiful, but you have to remember you that if you knit with very thick yarn and big needles, the holes in your work will also be very large. This of course does not have be a problem, depending on the type of work you want to do.

However, it is something you do need to take into account, because the effect with a tension of 20 stitches over 10 cm / 4 inch is very different from that with a tension of 2 stitches per 10 cm / 4 inch.

Reversibility
Depending on the type of project, it can be desirable for the stitch pattern to be reversible. In other words, that your project will be pretty on both sides. For a long scarf or cowl I think that’s really nice to have, because both sides are often visible. That is why I have chosen a simple straight-purl stitch pattern for this cowl: A two by two rib pattern.

Gymir Cowl pattern

This simply huge cowl has been named after the giant Gymir, who was in Norse mythology the giant whose daughter, Gerðr, ultimately married the god Freyr.

Instructions
Cast on 8 stitches, I used the “knitting on” method.

Row 1: *K2, p2; rep from * to the end of the row.

Repeat row 1 until your yarn almost runs out, making sure to leave enough to bind off and connect both ends of the piece.
Bind off.

Finishing
“Sew” both edges of the piece together to form a loop by pulling the remaining yarn through the fabric of both edges by hand. Enjoy your GIANT result!

And for comparisons sake, below my Gymir cowl in progress as well as another project on 5 mm needles.

Comparison of extreme knitting with regular knitting

gymir – free pattern Read More »

tour de fleece 2015

Cycling enthusiast or not, many people will be aware of the Tour de France in the Summer months. Especially the festive start in Utrecht this year, the Grand Départ, has brought many Dutch people to active cheering. What is less known is that at the same time with the Tour de France another international event takes place: The Tour de Fleece, abbreviated TdF.

What is the Tour de Fleece?

The idea is simple, for the duration of the Tour de France spinners from all over the world get together both online and offline to spin wool and other fibers into yarn. Cyclists have their wheels spinning in the round and we let our spinning wheels and spindles spin. It is actually more of a “Spin-Along” then a competition in which experiences and results can be shared. There are no hard and fast rules, the main thing is to challenge yourself and have fun!

Just like the Tour de France participants of the Tour de Fleece are organized into teams. There are several “official” teams that stay connected through the Tour de Fleece group on Ravelry. There are also a lot of “wildcard” teams that share experiences and progress in other groups. I myself join Team Karma, from the Karma Swap the Dutch group on Ravelry.

Goals

For me, this was the first time to join the TdF, which of course makes it extra special. I have not set myself targets of the type of “spinning x meters” or trying out specific techniques. That’s largely because spinning is for me pure hobby. Knitting and crochet I usually do for my own designs and patterns. So if I want to do something different, which is also finished fairly quickly, then I go spin myself some yarn. Making yarn for me is much faster than knitting it!

During this TdF I have therefore only set the target to just spin than usual and enjoy the social element. Not just online but also offline. For Team Karma we got together for a kick-off spin-in in the backyard of one of the ladies. It was very relaxing and fun!

The photos show what I’ve made during this Tour de Fleece. A lot less than other folks, but I sure had fun. Next year I’m certain to participate again!

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tutorial: crochet curlicues

Crochet curlicues - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

There are many ways to finish the edges of knitted or crochet projects. To name a few examples: crab stitch, shell stitches, and picot stitches. Fringe is also a lovely way to finish scarfs, shawls, blankets etc. But sometimes it is fun to just give it another twist. The answer to that is quite literally curlicues!

Curlicues not only give a lovely result, but are also very addicting to make.

Here you can find how to make curlicues yourself. For the example, I used a generic worsted weight acrylic yarn and a 5 mm (US H-8) hook. These instructions are written in American English crochet terminology.

This is how to make your curlicues step by step:

1. Make a chain in the length you would like your curlicue to have, plus 3 extra chains. In this example, I’m using 15 chains + 3 chains. Be careful not to make the chains too tight, because that will make it harder to crochet into it later.

2. Make 2 dc in the 4th chain from the hook.

3. Next, make 3 dc in each following chain. For the result, it doesn’t really matter where exactly to place your hook into the chain. Use the way you find easiest or gives the nicest result to you. When you are about halfway the initial chain, you should slowly see the curlicue shape emerge!

And here the curlicue is all done, isn’t it cute?

You can also get nice effects by not making the curlicues not in a solid colored yarn, but in a variegated one. You can also make curlicues with half double crochet (hdc) stitches instead of double crochet (dc) to get a less wide result.

Curlicues are also fun to dress up stuffed animals with, think of the arms of an octopus, or the wild manes of a lion. The sky is the limit!

tutorial: crochet curlicues Read More »

stip baby cardigan

The little two-tone Stip Baby Cardigan is a simple and elegant layering piece for when the weather is still cold and a little extra warmth is much appreciated. With its eye-catching dot yoke and soft A-line shape, this cardigan is bound to become a timeless favorite.

The cardigan is worked back and forth from the top down in one piece. Finish the piece with a reverse single crochet neck and hem finishing in a contrasting color.
This pattern is written in American English crochet terminology.

Pay what you want: (minimum €7.10)

€

Sizing

This pattern includes the following baby sizes:
3M (6M, 12M, 18M, 2) with finished chest size 49.5 (52, 54.5, 56.5, 63) cm / 19 ½ (20 ½, 21 ½, 22 ¼ , 24 ¾) inches to fit chest 40.5 (43, 45.5, 48, 53.5) cm / 16 (17, 18, 19, 21) inches.
Approx. 9 cm or 3 ½ inches positive ease recommended.

Difficulty

Techniques used in the Stip Baby Cardigan consist of foundation half double crochet foundation row, hdc, dc and ch stitches as well as various hdc increases and decreases.
This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate crocheter.

Pattern details

Crochet this design top-down
Gauge: 17 sts and 11.5 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in hdc after wet blocking.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie).
Digital PDF has 4 pages (A4 size)

Yarn

For this design you need yarn in DK or worsted weight in the following quantities for a similar result:

Main color: 300 (385, 435, 505, 515) m (330 (420, 475, 550, 565) yds) in gray.
Contrast Color: 60 (63, 70, 75, 80) m (65 (70, 75, 80, 85) yds) in lime.

Materials

Size 4 mm (G-6) crochet hook
Yarn needle
4 removable stitch markers
three size 3/8 inches sew-on snap buttons

stip baby cardigan Read More »

tutorial: knitting in the round – travelling loop method

In earlier posts I already told you about choosing circular needles that fit your style. “Regular” knitting in the round has also been discussed in this post. In this post, I want to talk about knitting in the round using the travelling loop method.

Why is this actually called travelling loop?

That is because with this method you use a circular knitting needle with a cable that is way too long for the project. During knitting, the excess length of the cable forming a loop will move along from the right-hand needle all the way around to the left-hand needle. The loop “travels” as it were!

Knitting with the travelling loop method works very well if two prerequisites are met:

Firstly, it is of importance that you use a circular needle with a cable too large for your project. If your project has a circumference of 50 cm / 20 inches, then circs with a length of 80 cm / 32 inches or longer would work fine with this method. For this same project circs with a length of 60 cm / 16 inches would not work, because the excess length of cable is too small to form the loop.

Secondly, make sure that the diameter of your project is not too small! Socks and sleeves will usually be too small to use this method because the length of the needle itself will be a problem. A knitted in the round cowl or (children) sweater will be fine though most of the time.

Knitting travelling loop step by step

In this example, I’m using 4 mm / 80 cm circular needles as well as a stitch marker to indicate the start and end of rounds.

1. Cast on the number of stitches as required for your project. In this example I have cast on stitches by knitting them on, you can, of course, use your preferred method or the one specified in your pattern.

2. Move the cast on stitches over your needle in such a way that the first CO stitch is on your left-hand needle. You can recognize this stitch by the loose tail. Make sure not to twist your work, if that is what is desired for your pattern.

3. When you are about to close the work in the round, this is how everything looks: The needle with the beginning of your CO (with the yarn tail) at the side of the left-hand needle, the thread leading to your ball of wool coming from the last CO stitch at the back. The right-hand needle has a long length of the unused cable. Now it is also time to place your “end of round” stitch marker on the right-hand needle.

4. Insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle and knit it. There will be tension on the yarn that connects the first and last stitch of the CO. Because of this, it can help to hold the cable close to the needle with your hand.

5. Once you have knitted part of the round, you will see the loop of excess cable travelling along.

6. At a certain point when knitting with a travelling loop, it will become possible to move all remaining stitches of the round up to the left-hand needle. Do this, to lessen the tension on the yarn that connects the first and last stitch of the CO.

7. At the end of the round, you will have a large piece of unused cable near the left-hand needle. Pull the circular needle through your work in such a way, that all stitches are ready to knit on the left-hand needle. The right-hand needle has the excess cable. Put the stitch marker over to the other needle and knit. You can tighten up the somewhat loose connection between the end and start of each round. To do so, pull the yarn tight with the second stitch of each new round. Don’t worry about the sloppy looking join, this will fix itself.

8. With each round making sure to pull the yarn tight with every second stitch of the round only. After knitting several rounds, it will look like this. As you can see everything has redistributed nicely and it does not look sloppy anymore!

Stay tuned for the next blog in the series of knitting in the round using circular needles!

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tutorial: knitting in the round with circular needles

Personally, I find knitting in the round with circular needles to be very relaxing. It goes round and round and round; very zen! This is what also made it so nice to work on my Zeeglas Cowl, pictured below. In this post I will tell and show you how knitting in the round works best, using circular needles (or circs for short).

How does knitting in the round using circs work?

Knitting in the round this way works best when using a needle with a cable length that matches the circumference of your project. It is better to use a needle that is a tad too short, than one too large. Knitting is easy to compress a bit, but stretching it out can get ugly. Also, this makes for a less than optimal knitting experience: it is hard to move along stitches that are stretched tight over your needle and cable.

For a cowl regular circular needles with a cable length of 60 cm (24 inches) is usually fine. For knitting socks this way there are even special tiny circs with extra short needles and a cable of a mere 10 cm (4 inches).

In this example, I will use a size 3 mm (US 2) circular needle with a cable length of 30 cm (12 inches). This specific needle has tips that are a tad shorter than regular circs. This needle by Addi is my favorite to knit baby hats from sock wool.

Knitting in the round with circular needles step by step

1. Cast on the number of stitches as required for your project plus 1. I will explain this extra stitch later on in this how-to. In this example I have cast on stitches by knitting them on. You can, of course, use your preferred method or the one specified in your pattern. In the picture below the strand of yarn at the bottom of the picture is where the CO was started. The strand at the top is the one that goes to the ball of yarn.

2. In patterns where the work has to be closed in the round, there often is a note to be careful not the twist the work. An exception to this is when you actually want a twist in the work. Take for example as with a Moebius type cowl. In the picture above in the spot indicated with the arrow, you can see there is a twist. I have to untwist it before proceeding!

3. Hold the needles in such a way that the last CO stitch is on your right-hand needle. You can recognize this stitch by the attached ball of yarn.

4. Slip this last CO stitch from your right-hand needle to the left-hand needle, then knit the first 2 stitches together. With this, you close the work in the round and at the same time, prevent a “gap” at the join. Also, the extra stitch cast on has been decreased away.

5. Place a stitch marker to indicate the start and end of the round and enjoy the knitting!

In another post on the topic of knitting in the round with circular needles, I also cover traveling loop. Posts on magic loop knitting and “two at a time” (“TAAT” for short) magic loop knitting will be done sometime in the future!

tutorial: knitting in the round with circular needles Read More »

choosing circular knitting needles

There are many types of projects where knitting in the round may be easier than knitting flat back and forth followed by sewing the pieces together. Think of socks, hats, sleeves of sweaters, round shawls etc. There are roughly two different ways to knit in the round: Double pointed needles (dpn’s) or circular needles (circs for short). Most people have a strict preference for one variant or the other.

My preference is for circulars; I once worked with dpn’s, but it felt like I was wrestling a hedgehog! For me using circs also saves the number of different knitting needles I need, because I use my circulars also to just knit back and forth.

Note that some knitting techniques are less suitable for knitting with circular needles. Think for example of those who are used to clamping the needle under the arm.

But how to go about choosing circular knitting needles?

In this post, I want to give you some background information about the different types of circulars. This because, as you can see in the picture above, there are really a lot of different types! Choosing circular knitting needles that are the right ones for you and your projects can, therefore, be a bit of a challenge. I will of course also talk about what to look for when you are going to try knitting with circular needles. Indeed, there is nothing as personal as a circular needle: If your knitting needle is not the right one for you, the experience can be less pleasant than knitting should be.

What to pay attention to

Material
Point
Connection to the cable
Material of the cable
Length of the cable

Below I will elaborate on each of these points as they are very much of importance when choosing circular knitting needles.

1. Material

Circular needles can be made from various materials. Commonly found are needles made from wood, bamboo, nickel plated, copper finish, plastic, and aluminum. Wood and bamboo have more drag when knitting than the other materials. Because of this, it is not my preference: For me personally, the smoother the better! The picture above shows two favorites from my personal collection: The silver with gold cable is a regular Addi circular needle, the copper-colored circular needle with the red cable is an Addi Lace needle. The latter has a special coating to make it a tad less smooth than regular Addi’s to make it easier to work with very thin yarn.

2. Point

In the picture above you can see the difference in points between the two types of circular needles very well. The lace needle is significantly sharper than the other. Which variant is preferred is again very personal and depends both on the type of project you want to knit, and your knitting style.

3. Connection to the cable

In the picture above you can see the difference between the connection of the more expensive Addi needles compared to the much cheaper Wibra circular needle: the connection on the Wibra needle is clearly less smooth. Moreover, I have no problem with Wibra needles: They are nice and pointy, have a good flexible cable and are excellent value for money.

However, depending on the type of project and your personal knitting style, the connection of the needle to the cable can be a problem. With very thin yarn, or if you knit very tight, the yarn can snag behind the edge, which can be very annoying when knitting.

4. Material of the cable

The various cables that you see in these photos are all made of different materials. As a result, there are also differences in how supple and flexible the cables are. This, in turn, has an effect on how easy and enjoyable different types of circular knitting can be done with them. I myself have not yet come across a cable too flexible for my tastes. More the opposite, with the cable being too stiff. This of course again depends on your own preferences.

Update December 13th, 2017: I have found circular needles with a (to my taste) too flexible cable, my 3.75 mm Kollage square needles. I like the needles themselves, but the cable is the limpest noodle I have ever encountered!

5. Length of the cable

Circular knitting needles come with different cable lengths: From very short 10 cm (4 inches) with extra short needles to knit socks, to cables with a length of 150 cm 60 inches) for very large projects. Most commonly, however, are cable lengths of 60, 80 and 100 cm (24, 32 and 40 inches). In my experience, the 80 cm (32 inches) length is sufficient for most needs.

When you have the need for multiple cable lengths, an interchangeable needle set with loose points and cables like the one below could be just the thing for you. I know this Addi Click set was for me the best investment in knitting tools in years!

In summary

If you have no experience with knitting in the round with circular needles and don’t know yet what you prefer: If possible, go and visit a friend who already has several and try them out before you invest yourself. Choosing circular knitting needles this way is a lot more budget friendly than buying them all!

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inspiration: workshop Stephen West

Once in a while I very much enjoy following a workshop. To learn new techniques or to find out how other people do certain things. Recently I followed the “Colorplay the Westknits way!” workshop with Stephen West at Ja, Wol in Rotterdam. This is by the way a really lovely yarn store with a great assortment of natural fibers, handmade or hand-dyed yarns and fair trade yarns. Absolutely worth a visit!

If you are familiar with Stephens work, you know that he is a true master in combining color and texture into eccentric but wearable pieces. Gorgeous examples include Exploration Station, Color Craving, Esjan and the Askews Me Sweater. During this 4 hours workshop he explained us his philosophy and guided us in experimentation involving lots of color, lots of texture and combining yarns.

Stephen remarked very accurately that everybody has his own color preferences, colors that are often reached for first when planning or starting a project. In the same vein there are also lots of colors, textures etc. we often don’t even consider using and walk past quickly: “Not my color”, “to busy” etcetera. It is his goal to no longer say “no”, but to become a “yes” knitter.
A too bright color? Use it as an accent. Too wild texture? Use it sparingly for that something extra in your project. Something not “your” color? Double it up with another yarn to give a whole new effect!

Various techniques like knitting an i-cord / slipped stitch edge (striped!) and short rows were also reviewed.

What I personally find so interesting, is that this working from color and material is so much different from how I usually work. I get the idea about a design, work it out on paper and then knit my sample from this pattern. Stephen Wests approach is start with a whole selection of varying yarns, a general idea for a shape and then he starts knitting. Only during the project he decides what the item wants to be.

Not only subject makes this workshop so interesting. Stephen west is a very charismatic person, easily engrossing his public with the stories of his knitting adventures. Add the pleasant surroundings of Ja, wol, the lovely tea and brownies the owner of the yarn shop Saskia served and you have a wonderful recipe for a well spend Sunday morning.

One thing is sure: I now have plenty inspiration for many new designs!

inspiration: workshop Stephen West Read More »