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tutorial: making extreme knitting needles

Knitting old fashioned and fussy? The people saying that probably haven’t heard of extreme knitting. There are many varieties of extreme knitting, to name a few examples:

Extremely small knitting or “micro knitting” as practiced by Althea Crome. She is also the artist responsible for the knitwear in the movie “Coraline”.
Knitting at extreme locations. Knitting under water as done by Nelleke and Rob Kool must be one of the more extreme examples of this type of extreme knitting!
Extremely large knitting, using (obviously) very big needles and yarn.

It is this last category of extreme knitting that has my attention. With much interest I have been reading about the Shetland lace garden fence, carpets from many strands of yarn knit simultaneously and fantastically fluffy blankets knit from wool roving.

I’m very interested in this type of extreme knitting. Knitting on such a scale must be very different from knitting on size 4 mm (US #6) size needles. The result itself is of course much bigger, although I can’t really get a feel on the impact of such large stitches when viewing this type of projects on the internet. I also expect that the act of knitting itself is much more labor intensive when compared to “regular” knitting.

The choice was easy to make: I was going extreme! Of course, very big knitting needles are needed for this. In this tutorial, I’m going to show you step by step how to make extreme knitting needles.

Making your own extreme knitting needles

Supplies needed

2 broomsticks with a tapered end (diameter approx. 28 mm / 1 inch)
medium grit sandpaper
fine grit sandpaper
sanding block

Instructions

Tear a strip from the medium grit sandpaper and fold it around the sanding block.
Sand the tapered ends of the broomsticks round and smooth.
Sand the entire broomstick, both tip, and shaft, with the fine grit sand to remove any splinters and make it smooth enough to be able to knit with it.

The result: two extremely large knitting needles!

In the next tutorial on this subject, we will be preparing the wool roving to be able to knit with it.

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from fleece to tweedy yarn

What I really love is to spin my own yarn and then design a pattern to use that yarn to its best advantage. Often I just use ready-dyed top or roving, for example from wonderful dyers like Dutch Wool Diva. Other times I start out with a raw fleece and clean and dye it myself, like I showed you in the dyeing wool tutorial. In this post, I want to show you the steps involved in making a tweedy yarn from the fiber I dyed before. The main characteristic of tweed yarn, consists of contrasting flecks of color on a solid or tonal background. In this particular yarn, I will be using sari silk threads as the contrasting component. I got mine from Bart & Francis.

Therefore, my starting materials consist of the following:

However, before the wool can be spun in threads, it has to be prepared. Because I wanted a somewhat “fluffy” yarn I carded the silk and wool together in fluffy batts, using my drum carder:

I alternated layers of wool and silk, starting and ending with wool. After this first pass, I removed the batt from the drum, tore it into strips and put it through the carder again to blend it better. The end result, three lovely fluffy purple batts, streaked with colorful silk:

Spinning

And then it was time to spin! I spun this yarn as a fat 2-ply on my vintage double drive spinning wheel. I didn’t mind some unevenness, because plying multiple singles together evens out a lot of irregularities. Besides, I really don’t mind a hand spun yarn being a tad rustic. Here’s a progress shot of spinning the singles:

And both bobbins full of singles, you can see the singles are somewhat thick-‘n-thin:

After plying both singles together, I had a wonderful aran weight 2 ply yarn, exactly as I envisioned it! I finished the yarn by giving it a wash to set the twist and snap the skein a bit to distribute the twist better. And there you have it: 189 m / 125 g of hand spun goodness, in this picture drying in the sun:

And of course the resulting and skeined up yarn! Truly from fleece to tweedy yarn, I used it in a cowl.

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tutorial: foundation half double crochet (fhdc)

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In another post, I have already shown you how to make a foundation row based on single crochet stitches. I really like this method of a chainless start of my crochet projects for all the reasons already explained in the other post. In this post I will show you how to make a half double crochet foundation row or fhdc for short.

This is a type of foundation row I use a lot myself, because I really like the fabric hdc stitches produce: not too dense, as is often the case with sc stitches. And not too holey either as a dc based fabric usually is. Exactly right as far as I’m concerned!

In a pattern, you may find the following instruction for fhdc:

Foundation half double crochet: make a slip knot and place onto hook, ch 3, yo and insert hook into both lps of the third st from hook, yo and draw through st, ch 1, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook, *yo, insert hook in ch part of previous st, yo and draw through st, ch 1, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook; rep from *.

Foundation half double crochet step by step

Below you can find the various steps and accompanying pictures. Please note that American crochet terminology is used in this tutorial.

1. Make a slip knot and chain 3.

2. Insert the hook from right to left under the top strands of the third chain from the hook.

3. Yarn over and draw through those top strands indicated above.

4. Chain one stitch, make sure to make this one not too tight, because here you create the “chain” part of your foundation row.

5. Yarn over and draw through all three loops on your hook. This completes the first stitch in your foundation half double crochet.

6. Insert the hook in the chain part of the previous stitch, this can be a tad hard to make out.

7. Yarn over and draw through both strands indicated above.

8. Chain one stitch, make sure again to make this one not too tight.

9. Yarn over and draw through all three loops on the hook.

Repeat steps 6-9 as often as needed!

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bloemen in het gras shawl

The Bloemen in het Gras shawl ha a crescent shape. This eye-catching design came from a desire to bring on an early Spring. With its lovely blue flowers on the bright grassy green background, all thoughts of Winter will soon belong to the past.

The shawl is worked bottom-up, starting with the flower border. Although the shawl is worked in two colors, only one single color is used per row. Easy short rows create the crescent shape.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

€

Difficulty level

The Bloemen in het Gras pattern features short rows and picking up and knitting stitches. Stitches used include knit, purl, skp, p2tog and yo as well as slipping stitches. Therefore, this pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Size and finished measurements

Wingspan of 158 cm (62 inches) and a depth of 49 cm (19 1⁄4 inches).

Pattern details

Written for a gauge of 18 sts / 27 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) measured over stockinette after blocking, gauge is however not critical in this design.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
Digital PDF has 3 pages (A4 size)

Materials

Yarn: The sample shawl was knit in Ice Yarns Pure Alpaca [100% alpaca; 200 m (219 yards) per 50 g skein]. Substitute any fingering or sport weight yarn for a similar result.
- Main color: 550 m (601 yards) / 132 g of sport weight alpaca yarn in green.
- Contrast color: 150 m (164 yards) / 36 g of sport weight alpaca yarn in blue.
Circular needles in the following sizes (or to match gauge):
Size 3.5 mm (US 4), 80 cm (32 inches) long
Size 4 mm (US 6), 80 cm (32 inches) long
Yarn needle
1 stitch marker

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free pattern: fun crochet coasters

Sometimes it’s just fun to dress up the table a bit. And what is better suited for that than these fun crochet coasters? I used small amounts of cotton left over from previous projects, making them easily washable. Of course, other types of yarn would also work perfectly fine. A very cheerful way to use up those little ends of yarn!

This pattern is written in American English crochet terminology.

Materials

A small amount of sport weight yarn. In the sample coasters, Wibra Nova was used (100% mercerized cotton; 110 m (120 yds) / 50 g), per coaster 11 m (12 yds) / 5 g in the main color and 7 m (8 yds) / 3 g in the contrast color.
Crochet hook size 3.5 mm (US # E/4).

Fun crochet coasters - a free pattern by La Visch Designs

Special stitches

Popcorn stitch: [Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull lp through st, yo, pull lp through first 2 lp’s on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through all lps on hook (popcorn made).
Beg popcorn: [Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull lp through st, yo, pull lp through first 2 lp’s on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through all lps on hook (popcorn made)

Instructions

Round 1: With CC ch 1, 6 sc in first ch and sl st closed to first sc (6 sts).
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st, sl st to first ch of round (12 sts).
Round 3: Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc), 1 sc in 1st st, *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from *, sl st to turning ch (19 sts).
Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), beg popcorn in 1st st, ch 2, skip next st, *1 popcorn in next st, ch 2, skip next st; rep from *, sl st to top of first popcorn.
Break yarn.

Round 5: With MC ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in top of popcorn, *3 dc in next ch-2 sp, 2 dc in top of next popcorn; rep from *, end with 3 dc in last ch-2 sp, sl st to 3rd ch of turning ch.
Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in 1st st, *1 dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * to last 4 sts, 1 dc in each of next 4 sts, sl st to 3rd ch of turning ch.
Break yarn and weave in ends.

In what colors will you be making your fun crochet coasters?

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wide horizon boatneck tee

In the June 2015 issue of I Like Crochet summer is welcomed with bright new patterns. For the “Sweet and Stylish Tanks and Cardis” section in this issue, I have designed an easy and fun tee pattern. You can find the Wide Horizon Boatneck Tee in I Like Crochet. Photo courtesy of I like Crochet Magazine.

This striking top is an oversized, drapey boatneck tee that boasts a playful stripe pattern. The tee also has decorative outside seams and slit shoulder detail that makes this tee a perfect garment for a breezy summer day. The simple construction makes it suitable for crocheters of all levels, and provides a versatile and easy to wear garment.

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tutorial: foundation single crochet (fsc)

Many crochet patterns start with the instruction to work a foundation chain followed by working either a single crochet, half double crochet or double crochet into each chain. Personally, I don’t care much for this way of starting a project: I lose count of the initial number of chains, the chain stitches are fiddly to insert your hook into and getting the tension right is just hard. I usually end up with an edge that is either too tight or too loose.

That is why when I learned about foundation rows, I never looked back. When making a foundation row, both the foundation chain and first row of your project are in effect made simultaneously. This makes it easy to keep track of the number of stitches worked and the tension just right.

A foundation row can be worked with a variety of stitches including (but not limited to) single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet. The below tutorial focuses on making a Foundation Single Crochet or FSC. Please note that American crochet terminology is used.

In a pattern, you may find the following instruction:

Foundation single crochet: make a slip knot and place onto hook, ch 2, insert hook into both lps of the second ch from hook, yo and draw through, ch 1, yo and draw through both lps on hook, *insert hook in ch part of previous st, yo and draw through, ch 1, yo and draw through both lps on hook; rep from *.

Working foundation single crochet step by step

1. Make a slip knot and chain 2.

2. Insert the hook from right to left under the top strands of the second chain from the hook.

3. Yarn over and draw through those top strands indicated above.

4. Chain one stitch, make sure to make this one not too tight because here you create the “chain” part of your foundation row.

5. Yarn over and draw through both loops on your hook. This completes the first stitch in your foundation single crochet.

6. Insert the hook in the chain part of the previous stitch, this can be a tad hard to make out. In the below picture I’ve indicated that part with the arrow. On your hook are now 2 strands and 1 loop.

7. Yarn over and draw through both strands indicated above.

8. Chain one stitch, make sure again to make this one not too tight.

9. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook.

Repeat steps 6-9 as needed.

Hope you find the foundation single crochet as useful as I do!

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zeeglas cowl

Reminiscent of the soft colors of sea glass on a sunny beach, the Zeeglas Cowl warms the neck and shoulders like a soft cloud. The simple to work lace pattern is provided both charted and written out.

The various colors from the Adele’s Mohair Brushed Self Stripe Yarn used in the sample give this design added visual interest. When substituting yarns, choose either a sport weight brushed mohair type yarn or lace weight kid-silk type yarn held double for a similar result. This design is very well suited for stash busting odds and ends of mohair type yarn.

Pay what you want: (minimum €5.50)

€