tutorial: preparing roving for extreme knitting

Extreme knitting - a tutorial by La Visch Designs
You have perhaps already read in this blog post, that extreme knitting really has my attention lately. In that blog post I have been shown you how I made extreme knitting needles from broom sticks. Today I am going to show you how I prepared wool roving to be able to knit with it.

At first I just started knitting with the roving as it came. However, soon it became clear that this particular piece of knitting was very thick and stiff. Perhaps suitable for a thick rug, but not for the scarf I envisioned. In other words: my new extreme broomstick needles were too small for this “yarn”!

I wasn’t planning on making even bigger knitting needles, so something had to be done with the wool itself to make it suitable for the needles I had available. Also, the thought came to me that untreated wool roving knit into a scarf, would probably shed like a Wookiee in Springtime. Not a good look when wearing dark colored clothes.

Below the steps to prepare my roving for extreme knitting:

1. Splitting the roving length-wise. This way I not only halved the thickness, but also doubled the total length available for my scarf!

Extreme knitting - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

 

2. The result: Two large balls of roving. Because the roving is now significantly thinner, it also falls apart more easily when handled. This combined with the shedding problem led me to the idea to full/felt the wool.

Extreme knitting - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

 

3. To make sure the wool wouldn’t felt together in one big lump, I draped it on a large sheet like this:

Extreme knitting - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

 

4. Then I rolled up the sheet, making sure that the roving did not touch itself anywhere. When rolled up like a big sausage I used some waste yarn to make sure it stayed that way. After this the whole package was put in the washing machine on a short 30 minute / 30 degrees Celsius program.

Extreme knitting - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

 

5. Here my roving yarn is out of the washing machine and hanging to dry. It’s nicely felted as you can see!

Extreme knitting - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

 

6. And there we have it: A large ball of felted roving, ready for some extreme knitting.

Extreme knitting - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

 

Go to this page to see what I made out of this extreme yarn!

tutorial: preparing roving for extreme knitting Read More »

tutorial: reverse single crochet (rsc)

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

A knitting or crochet project isn’t really finished until all edges and borders are also finished. With knitted pieces, this plays an even more important role, as stockinette or stockinette-based fabric often curls. Applying a crocheted edge is a nice and easy solution to prevent this. In this post, I’m going to write about the “crab stitch” or “reverse single crochet”. This stitch is often abbreviated as “rsc”. The latter reveals a lot about how this stitch is worked: exactly the same way as a regular single crochet stitch, only in the reverse direction!

What I find really nice about the crab stitch, is that it has a very sleek unisex look. Because of this, it is very suitable for finishing of clothing items and accessories for men of all ages. Also, you can create very nice effects by stitching the crab stitch in a contrasting color. This is something I’ve done in the green and blue vest, which you can see a detail of in the picture above. In the step-by-step instructions, I will, however, be making the crab stitch edging in the same color as the main piece. Please note that American crochet terminology is used in this tutorial.

Crab stitch or reverse single crochet step by step:

1. Begin on the left side of the item, you will be working from the left to right.

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

2. Insert the hook in the base stitch where you want to start your edging.

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

3. Twist the point of your hook to the left, grab the yarn and pull through the stitch. This is the hardest part of the reverse single crochet stitch to get right. There are now two loops on your hook.

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

4. Yarn over and draw through the two loops on your hook.

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

5. This completes the first stitch. Repeat steps 1 to 4 as often as needed for your project.

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

The completed edging will look like this:

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In the picture below, you see in the middle a version of my Kimono Wrap Revisited, which I finished with a reverse single crochet edging in a contrasting color.

kimono wrap revisited by La Visch Designs

Have fun embellishing your projects with this wonderful, versatile stitch!

tutorial: reverse single crochet (rsc) Read More »

tutorial: foundation double crochet (fdc)

In earlier tutorials, I have already shown you how to start your crochet without a starting chain, using either foundation single crochet (fsc) or foundation half double crochet (fhdc).

In this tutorial, the final part in the series: how to work a foundation double crochet or fdc. Please note that American crochet terminology is used in this tutorial. In a pattern, you may find the following instruction for fhdc:

Foundation double crochet: make a slip knot and place onto hook, ch 3, yo and insert hook into both lps of the third st from hook, yo and draw through st, ch 1, yo and draw through first 2 lps on hook, yo and draw through last 2 lps on hook, *yo, insert hook in ch part of previous st, yo and draw through st, ch 1, yo and draw through first 2 lps on hook, yo and draw through last 2 lps on hook; rep from *.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) step by step

1. Make a slip knot and chain 3.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

2. Yarn over and insert the hook from right to left under the top strands of the third chain from the hook.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

3. Yarn over and draw through the top strands as indicated above.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

4. Chain one stitch, make sure to make this one not too tight, because here you create the “chain” part of your foundation row.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

5. Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on your hook.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

6. Yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on your hook. This completes the first stitch in your foundation double crochet.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

7. Insert the hook in the chain part of the previous stitch, as indicated by the arrow in the picture above. This can be a tad hard to make out. Yarn over and draw through both strands of the stitch.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

8. Chain one stitch, again making sure not to make this one too tight.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

9. Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on your hook.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

10. Yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on your hook.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Repeat steps 7-10 as often as needed! And this is what your foundation double crochet (fdc) should look like:

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

tutorial: foundation double crochet (fdc) Read More »

cirkels

cirkels shawl by La Visch Designs

The bold circle (“cirkel” in Dutch) featured in the border inspired the Cirkels shawl design. This wonderful eye catching lace reminds me of the bridges of Paris, crossing the Seine.

Knit Cirkels sideways from tip to tip. Increases/decreases are worked one stitch every other row, creating a shallow triangle. The lace border features triple yarn overs, giving it its distinct circles. Because the border is knit at the same time as the body of the shawl, the time needed for finishing is minimal.


Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

Add to cart


Difficulty level

This pattern features a stockinette body with a simultaneously knit garter stitch lace edging. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, kfb, M1, yo, triple yo and a centered double decrease. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Size and finished measurements

Wingspan of 145 cm (57 inches) and a depth of 50 cm (20 inches), measured after blocking.

Pattern details

  • Written for a gauge of 18 sts / 20 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette after blocking, gauge is however not critical in this design.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 4 pages in the English version and  pages for the Dutch version (A4 size)

Materials

  • 420 m (460 yds) / 100 g Regia 4 fädig / 4 ply sock yarn [75% wool, 25% nylon; 210 m (230 yds) / 50 g skein]. Substitute any fingering weight yarn for a similar result.
  • A circular needle size 4 mm (US 6), 80 cm (32 inches) long.
  • Yarn needle
  • 1 stitch marker

cirkels Read More »

tutorial: making extreme knitting needles

Extreme knitting needles - a tutorial by La Visch Designs
Knitting old fashioned and fussy? The people saying that probably haven’t heard of extreme knitting. There are many varieties of extreme knitting, to name a few examples:

  • Extremely small knitting or “micro knitting” as practiced by Althea Crome. She is also the artist responsible for the knitwear in the movie “Coraline”.
  • Knitting at extreme locations. Knitting under water as done by Nelleke and Rob Kool must be one of the more extreme examples of this type of extreme knitting!
  • Extremely large knitting, using (obviously) very big needles and yarn.

It is this last category of extreme knitting that has my attention. With much interest I have been reading about the Shetland lace garden fence, carpets from many strands of yarn knit simultaneously and fantastically fluffy blankets knit from wool roving.

I’m very interested in this type of extreme knitting. Knitting on such a scale must be very different from knitting on size 4 mm (US #6) size needles. The result itself is of course much bigger, although I can’t really get a feel on the impact of such large stitches when viewing this type of projects on the internet. I also expect that the act of knitting itself is much more labor intensive when compared to “regular” knitting.

The choice was easy to make: I was going extreme! Of course, very big knitting needles are needed for this. In this tutorial, I’m going to show you step by step how to make extreme knitting needles.

Extreme knitting needles - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

 

Making your own extreme knitting needles

Supplies needed

  • 2 broomsticks with a tapered end (diameter approx. 28 mm / 1 inch)
  • medium grit sandpaper
  • fine grit sandpaper
  • sanding block

Instructions

  1. Tear a strip from the medium grit sandpaper and fold it around the sanding block.
  2. Sand the tapered ends of the broomsticks round and smooth.
  3. Sand the entire broomstick, both tip, and shaft, with the fine grit sand to remove any splinters and make it smooth enough to be able to knit with it.

The result: two extremely large knitting needles!

Extreme knitting needles - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

 

In the next tutorial on this subject, we will be preparing the wool roving to be able to knit with it.

tutorial: making extreme knitting needles Read More »

from fleece to tweedy yarn

From fleece to tweedy yarn - by La Visch Designs

What I really love is to spin my own yarn and then design a pattern to use that yarn to its best advantage. Often I just use ready-dyed top or roving, for example from wonderful dyers like Dutch Wool Diva. Other times I start out with a raw fleece and clean and dye it myself, like I showed you in the dyeing wool tutorial. In this post, I want to show you the steps involved in making a tweedy yarn from the fiber I dyed before. The main characteristic of tweed yarn, consists of contrasting flecks of color on a solid or tonal background. In this particular yarn, I will be using sari silk threads as the contrasting component. I got mine from Bart & Francis.

Therefore, my starting materials consist of the following:

From fleece to tweedy yarn - by La Visch Designs

However, before the wool can be spun in threads, it has to be prepared. Because I wanted a somewhat “fluffy” yarn I carded the silk and wool together in fluffy batts, using my drum carder:

From fleece to tweedy yarn - by La Visch Designs

I alternated layers of wool and silk, starting and ending with wool. After this first pass, I removed the batt from the drum, tore it into strips and put it through the carder again to blend it better. The end result, three lovely fluffy purple batts, streaked with colorful silk:

From fleece to tweedy yarn - by La Visch Designs

Spinning

And then it was time to spin! I spun this yarn as a fat 2-ply on my vintage double drive spinning wheel. I didn’t mind some unevenness, because plying multiple singles together evens out a lot of irregularities. Besides, I really don’t mind a hand spun yarn being a tad rustic. Here’s a progress shot of spinning the singles:

From fleece to tweedy yarn - by La Visch Designs

And both bobbins full of singles, you can see the singles are somewhat thick-‘n-thin:

From fleece to tweedy yarn - by La Visch Designs

After plying both singles together, I had a wonderful aran weight 2 ply yarn, exactly as I envisioned it! I finished the yarn by giving it a wash to set the twist and snap the skein a bit to distribute the twist better. And there you have it: 189 m / 125 g of hand spun goodness, in this picture drying in the sun:

From fleece to tweedy yarn - by La Visch Designs

And of course the resulting and skeined up yarn! Truly from fleece to tweedy yarn, I used it in a cowl.

From fleece to tweedy yarn - by La Visch Designs

from fleece to tweedy yarn Read More »

tutorial: foundation half double crochet (fhdc)

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In another post, I have already shown you how to make a foundation row based on single crochet stitches. I really like this method of a chainless start of my crochet projects for all the reasons already explained in the other post. In this post I will show you how to make a half double crochet foundation row or fhdc for short.

This is a type of foundation row I use a lot myself, because I really like the fabric hdc stitches produce: not too dense, as is often the case with sc stitches. And not too holey either as a dc based fabric usually is. Exactly right as far as I’m concerned!

In a pattern, you may find the following instruction for fhdc:

Foundation half double crochet: make a slip knot and place onto hook, ch 3, yo and insert hook into both lps of the third st from hook, yo and draw through st, ch 1, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook, *yo, insert hook in ch part of previous st, yo and draw through st, ch 1, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook; rep from *.

Foundation half double crochet step by step

Below you can find the various steps and accompanying pictures. Please note that American crochet terminology is used in this tutorial.

1. Make a slip knot and chain 3.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

2. Insert the hook from right to left under the top strands of the third chain from the hook.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

3. Yarn over and draw through those top strands indicated above.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

4. Chain one stitch, make sure to make this one not too tight, because here you create the “chain” part of your foundation row.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

5. Yarn over and draw through all three loops on your hook. This completes the first stitch in your foundation half double crochet.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

6. Insert the hook in the chain part of the previous stitch, this can be a tad hard to make out.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

7. Yarn over and draw through both strands indicated above.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

8. Chain one stitch, make sure again to make this one not too tight.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

9. Yarn over and draw through all three loops on the hook.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Repeat steps 6-9 as often as needed!

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

tutorial: foundation half double crochet (fhdc) Read More »

bloemen in het gras shawl

Bloemen in het Gras

The Bloemen in het Gras shawl ha a crescent shape. This eye-catching design came from a desire to bring on an early Spring. With its lovely blue flowers on the bright grassy green background, all thoughts of Winter will soon belong to the past.

The shawl is worked bottom-up, starting with the flower border. Although the shawl is worked in two colors, only one single color is used per row. Easy short rows create the crescent shape.


Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

Add to cart


Difficulty level

The Bloemen in het Gras pattern features short rows and picking up and knitting stitches. Stitches used include knit, purl, skp, p2tog and yo as well as slipping stitches. Therefore, this pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Size and finished measurements

Wingspan of 158 cm (62 inches) and a depth of 49 cm (19 1⁄4 inches).

Pattern details

  • Written for a gauge of 18 sts / 27 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) measured over stockinette after blocking, gauge is however not critical in this design.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 3 pages (A4 size)

Materials

  • Yarn: The sample shawl was knit in Ice Yarns Pure Alpaca [100% alpaca; 200 m (219 yards) per 50 g skein]. Substitute any fingering or sport weight yarn for a similar result.
    • Main color: 550 m (601 yards) / 132 g of sport weight alpaca yarn in green.
    • Contrast color: 150 m (164 yards) / 36 g of sport weight alpaca yarn in blue.
  • Circular needles in the following sizes (or to match gauge):
    Size 3.5 mm (US 4), 80 cm (32 inches) long
    Size 4 mm (US 6), 80 cm (32 inches) long
  • Yarn needle
  • 1 stitch marker

bloemen in het gras shawl Read More »

free pattern: fun crochet coasters

Fun Crochet Coasters

Sometimes it’s just fun to dress up the table a bit. And what is better suited for that than these fun crochet coasters? I used small amounts of cotton left over from previous projects, making them easily washable. Of course, other types of yarn would also work perfectly fine. A very cheerful way to use up those little ends of yarn!

This pattern is written in American English crochet terminology.

Materials

  • A small amount of sport weight yarn. In the sample coasters, Wibra Nova was used (100% mercerized cotton; 110 m (120 yds) / 50 g), per coaster 11 m (12 yds) / 5 g in the main color and 7 m (8 yds) / 3 g in the contrast color.
  • Crochet hook size 3.5 mm (US # E/4).
Fun crochet coasters - a free pattern by La Visch Designs

Special stitches

  • Popcorn stitch: [Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull lp through st, yo, pull lp through first 2 lp’s on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through all lps on hook (popcorn made).
  • Beg popcorn: [Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull lp through st, yo, pull lp through first 2 lp’s on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through all lps on hook (popcorn made)

Instructions

Round 1: With CC ch 1, 6 sc in first ch and sl st closed to first sc (6 sts).
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st, sl st to first ch of round (12 sts).
Round 3: Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc), 1 sc in 1st st, *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from *, sl st to turning ch (19 sts).
Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), beg popcorn in 1st st, ch 2, skip next st, *1 popcorn in next st, ch 2, skip next st; rep from *, sl st to top of first popcorn.
Break yarn.

Round 5: With MC ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in top of popcorn, *3 dc in next ch-2 sp, 2 dc in top of next popcorn; rep from *, end with 3 dc in last ch-2 sp, sl st to 3rd ch of turning ch.
Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in 1st st, *1 dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * to last 4 sts, 1 dc in each of next 4 sts, sl st to 3rd ch of turning ch.
Break yarn and weave in ends.

In what colors will you be making your fun crochet coasters?

Fun crochet coasters - a free pattern by La Visch Designs

free pattern: fun crochet coasters Read More »

wide horizon boatneck tee

Wide Horizon Boatneck Tee in I like Crochet

In the June 2015 issue of I Like Crochet summer is welcomed with bright new patterns. For the “Sweet and Stylish Tanks and Cardis” section in this issue, I have designed an easy and fun tee pattern. You can find the Wide Horizon Boatneck Tee in I Like Crochet. Photo courtesy of I like Crochet Magazine.

This striking top is an oversized, drapey boatneck tee that boasts a playful stripe pattern. The tee also has decorative outside seams and slit shoulder detail that makes this tee a perfect garment for a breezy summer day. The simple construction makes it suitable for crocheters of all levels, and provides a versatile and easy to wear garment.

White Horizone Boatneck Tee detail

wide horizon boatneck tee Read More »