designer interview: Loraine Birchall – Woolly Madly Deeply

annabella dress
Annabella Dress by Loraine Birchall

As I wrote earlier, I will be posting interviews with some of my fellow Indie designers who also participate in the Indie Design Gift-A-Long 2014. To read more about what this Gift-A-Long entails, click here. Today is my interview kick-off with Loraine Birchall, from Woolly Madly Deeply. She joined me in the chat room of the La Visch Designs group on Ravelry:

Hello Loraine! I’m very excited to be having this interview with you and get to know one of my fellow Indie Design Gift-A-Long designers a bit better.

It’s great to have the chance to chat you, thanks for asking me

You’re very welcome! Ready to get started?

Yes, ready when you are

Ok, first question: would you please tell us a little about yourself?

I’m a web designer in my day job and a knitwear designer in my ‘free’ time. I’ve worked in all sorts of jobs and careers over the years making anything from submarines and warships to websites and sweaters. I live in Ulverston, a few miles outside the Lake District National Park in the North of England. Born in Scotland but I don’t feel Scottish as I’ve lived in England more than anywhere else.

That is a very diverse background! If I read it correctly, your general career path has been designing related. But how did you start designing knitwear?

I’ve knitted since I was about five years old, my Grandma in Edinburgh was a sample knitter for the wool houses up there and made gorgeous fair isle and cable knits. I loved watching her. If I wasn’t watching her (or my English Great Grandma who was an avid knitter), I was meddling the garage with my Scottish Grandpa, he was an engineer and taught me how to take things to bits and put them back together, so I’ve always been fascinated with construction of any kind. I’m a curvy pear shape so nothing off the rack fits, I always had to modify to fit me, it made sense to sell the patterns I’d spent so much time on and was a natural progression after many years of making it up to fit myself.

I hated maths at school so it’s funny that I use it so much in terms of knitwear sizing patterns and also for the technology in my day job which involves lots of databases.

Where do you find inspiration for your designs?

It comes from everywhere, it might be a texture. Like some carved stonework or a panel of wood, bark on trees that sort of thing, but mostly the yarn tells me what it wants to be. I sit with it in my hands, swatch a bit and see what it wants me to make. Sometimes it takes a bit of ripping back but I won’t stop until I know exactly what kind of fabric it will be. I love color and texture, clever slipped stitches, mosaics etc

Other times, I think, I need some mitts and I have these two shades of yarn. Then I play with it a bit and write something up

Do you start you design process by starting playing with the yarn, or do you completely work out the design before starting knitting?

Most times I start with the yarn. Swatch, swatch and swatch until I like what I’ve got. Then I work up the design from there. I like to feel the drape of the finished fabric first, to see how it wants to lay. Does it curl or lay flat for example? Once I understand the fabric it’s easy to make that work with a shape of a cardigan or an accessory as you understand the characteristics it will give to the finished piece.

A lot of my swatches develop into hats or sleeves, I’m with Elizabeth Zimmerman in not wasting any stitch I knit lol

That is so interesting!
Some minor swatching aside I personally tend to write up the pattern before knitting it 🙂

I do it that way around if it’s for a magazine submission and there is a fixed deadline, it’s faster.

What’s your favorite thing to knit?

I love to make garments, sweaters, cardigans, large wraps. Hats and shawls too. I don’t enjoy making socks or gloves but I LOVE wearing hand knitted socks and gloves. So, sometimes I just have to get on with it. I like to wear my knits and as I’m usually cold, sweaters or jackets etc are perfect for that. Also, I have a selection of what my partner calls my ‘old lady shawls’ to wrap up in on cool nights.

Ah, those big warm wraps. My favorite too for when it’s cold!
What is your favorite pattern of your own design?

I like unusual construction, so modular knits. Aything knit on the bias or in an usual way. So, I guess my Adult Modular Cardigan or the Amazing Modular Baby Cardigan for that reason. But for something feminine with lots of details, the Rian Cardigan wins the day. I love them all for different reasons, sometimes is the yarn or the texture that excites me.

Adult Modular Cardigan Jacket
Adult Modular Cardigan Jacket

Pick one of your own designs that you think makes the perfect gift and tell us why you think that.

Oooh, that’s a tough one to answer. I love to wear hats and my Festival Hat is the favorite at the moment. It’s such a great way to use up scraps of color and make something unique. It looks really complicated but is actually so easy. It’d fit from a baby to a huge, man head and could work with lots of weights of yarns. It makes a really warm fabric. The ‘bubble wrap’ effect of the stitches makes it trap the air and keep you toasty warm. Loraine Birchall

It’s like being asked to choose your favorite of your kids lol, I feel I shouldn’t have a favorite.

I can indeed see that your Festival Hat would be great to customize and to use of scraps. I really like the colors you chose for your sample version. Those bright colors really brighten up a dreary autumn day.

Thank you, it was fun to knit. The decreases on the crown took a lot of working out lol.

festival hat
Festival Hat

Are you doing any gift knitting yourself this year?

Gift knitting: I’m making a hat for my Dad. Also, a Gansey Driving Cap by Anne Carrol Gilmour. She’s a lovely lady and her patterns are a delight to knit. I’m knitting two sweaters in the GAL, Taliesin Sweater and the Cranberry Brioche Sweater. Plus the Mom’s Favorite Color Hat, which is plaid, a great joke which made me laugh. I have to knit a cardigan for my new niece who is named after my Grandma, Lily. I knitted a Sloth toy for my son. Loraine Birchall

Lots more to do!. However, I may cheat and do the sleeves on a few cardigans on my Bond knitting machine. That’ll speed things up.

Wow, you really have quite a list of projects planned!
I’m looking forward to see your WIP’s and FO’s appear in the various GAL 2014 threads 🙂

I knit obsessively. I take my knitting to meetings (it helps me listen and focus). On the bus, when I’m being driven somewhere, to wait outside meeting rooms etc. My handbag always has emergency knitting in it. It puts the brain into an Alpha state, so it helps relax you as if you had been meditating.

Yes, I can see how all those minutes here and there are adding up…

I said I was obsessive lol :0
I treat it like a piece of work and schedule it into my day. Control freak maybe?

I see a bit of structure and order as a good counter weight for the chaos that usually accompanies the creative aspect of designing. There has to be some balance 😉

Thanks, I’m really enjoying the GAL so far, what are you knitting?

I intend to knit the lineside beanie, the Lumberjack beard-hat and have various designs going on that need samples finished. Busy!

It sounds busy but it’ll be great fun. I love the beanie and the beard-hat is great fun. I’m part way through one test knit and about to start another but my part of that knitting is all done. Loraine Birchall

It is a balancing act, if I feel like goofing off, I ask myself does it take me closer to my goal or further away? That usually gets me back on track, but I do take some time off.

Lovely! That’s it for my questions…

Thanks so much for doing this, Susanne, it’s really appreciated

You are very welcome Loraine! I really enjoy this chance to get a to know a fellow designer a bit better 🙂

It’s fantastic to chat to you, I’ve really enjoyed it. I can’t wait to see your new designs when they are ready.

Wonderful and thank you. Have a great evening! Loraine Birchall

designer interview: Loraine Birchall – Woolly Madly Deeply Read More »

zoel hat

Zoel hat

The Zoel Hat is a very soft and delicate hat knit using lace weight mohair yarn. It is a great pattern to get familiar with using this type of yarn. Because of the simple two-row lace, this pattern not only lets the yarn shine but also makes for a wonderful portable project.

Pair it with the Zoel Scarf to warm up a cold day in autumn or winter.


Pay what you want: (minimum €4.90)

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Skills required

This hat is knit in the round. Stitches used include knit, purl, yo, k2tog and the double decrease sl1-k2tog-psso. The pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and Finished Measurements

The Zoel hat is available in 3 sizes: S (M, L). In the pictures, the M sized hat is worn with 7.5 cm (3 inches) of positive ease.
Finished size at brim: 55 (60, 65) cm, 21 1⁄2 (23 1⁄2, 25 1⁄2) inches.
Length from brim to crown: 20 cm, 7 3⁄4 inches.

Pattern details

  • Bottom-up
  • Written for gauge of approx. 14 sts / 24 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) over lace pattern
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 2 pages (A4 size)

Materials

  • 15 (16,17) g / 83 (89, 95) m (91 (98, 105) yards) of Lana Grossa Lace Pearls [40% wool, 26% polyamide, 18% alpaca, 18% mohair, 8% glass; 137 m (149 yds) per 25 g skein].
    Substitute any lace weight kid mohair/silk type yarn for a similar result.
  • Needles in your preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round in the following sizes (or to match gauge): Size 4 mm (US #6) and size 4.5 mm (US #7)
  • Yarn needle
  • 12 (13, 14) plain stitch markers
  • 1 differently colored end-of-round stitch marker

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almost time: 2014 Indie Design Gift-A-Long

GAL14_logo-400

Preparing for the holidays as only fiber folks can, with special deals from tons of indie designers in the Indie Design Gift-A-Long. And this year La Visch is one of the participating designers!

What is the Gift-A-Long? It’s a multi-designer promotion to help you kick your holiday gift-making into high gear.
The Indie Design Gift-A-Long is a 2-month long KAL/CAL (Knit-A-Long/Crochet-A-Long) of holiday gifts made from patterns designed by a rather extensive list of independent designers. From 13 to 21 November 2014 tons of indie designers will be discounting between 4 and 20 of their patterns 25% for this event. You can read all about the details in this post on Ravelry: click!

Not a member yet of Ravelry? Join! It’s free and totally awesome.

Once you’ve got your Gift-A-Long patterns, you can join a relevant KAL/CAL in the Indie Design Gift-A-Long group. For example, if you are making a shawl, join the shawl KAL/CAL to be eligible for prizes. To join, simply write a post in the KAL/CAL thread of your choice, including the pattern name you will be knitting and a link to your project page. KAL/CAL participants are eligible for lots of lovely prizes but you gotta post to win!

KAL/CALs will run from Thursday, November 13 at 8pm (US-EST) through our New Year’s Eve party, Wednesday, December 31 at midnight (US-EST). In other words: plenty of time to knock out all your holiday knitting and crocheting.
There will also be games, tons of prizes, great conversation, and a lot of fun, so pull up a chair and join!

Stay tuned, because I will also be posting interviews with some of my fellow Indie designers the upcoming weeks.

Other things to keep in mind:

  • Please use #giftalong2014 to tag your social media-ing!
  • Please only share your Giftalong projects with the Gift-A-Long group

almost time: 2014 Indie Design Gift-A-Long Read More »

hugs and kisses set: hat and scarf

hugs and kisses set

I Like Crochet issue December 2014 contains two of my designs! As part of the Warm up to Winter chapter in this issue, I’m presenting the Hugs and Kisses Set consisting of a hat and matching scarf. Photo courtesy of I like Crochet Magazine.

Luxurious, stylish and deceptively easy. The broomstick lace-filled Hugs and Kisses Scarf and Hat set is a perfectly coordinated set. It will last you all winter long. Together, the hat and scarf provide all the warm woolen hugs and kisses one can ask for in winter time.

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latvian twist tutorial

Latvian Twist tutorial by La Visch Designs
The Latvian Twist, also known as the twisted stitch edge, makes a lovely edge. In the above picture, I used it in my Ayamaru cowl. This edge can be worked in both stockinette stitch as in garter stitch, the latter also preventing rolling. The edge can be made in multiples of 3 to 6 stitches, each giving their own look to the piece.
In the step by step how-to below, we are making a garter stitch Latvian Twist, worked over multiples of 4 stitches.

Working a Latvian Twist step by step

1. Cast on stitches, making sure you have a multiple of the type of Latvian Twist you want to make. For this example, I cast on 24 stitches, as multiple of 4 stitches. You can use your preferred cast on, I used a cable cast on.

latvian twist1

 2. Knit 4 to 6 rows, again this depends on the look you want to achieve. Working more rows makes for a fatter Latvian Twist. In this example, I knit 4 rows.

latvian twist2

3. Next, knit 4 stitches or the number of stitches you are working multiples off.

latvian twist3

 4. Rotate your right-hand needle clock-wise around the left-hand needle, twisting the work. Make sure your yarn is positioned in such a way that you don’t create a yarn over.

latvian twist4

5. With the rotating action, the yarn will be twisted together with the rest of knitting on the right-hand needle, around the garter piece already worked. Pull it tight.

latvian twist5

6. Repeat steps 3 to 5 until all stitches are worked.

latvian twist6

7.  Knit (or purl) one more row. In this example, I knit 1 row. With this extra row, you lock down the twists worked in the piece.

latvian twist7

8. Then continue with your main pattern. In this example, I worked a couple more rows of stockinette stitch.

latvian twist8

And there you have it: a lovely Latvian Twist edge!

Points of attention

There are also two more points of attention I would like to share with you: A Latvian Twist can only be worked flat. This means that if you want to apply it to a piece knit in the round, you can only join in the round after the Latvian Twist has been worked. During finishing both ends of the Twist can be sewn or grafted together.

Also, this edge can only be worked at the start of a knitted piece. Therefore, if you want to finish both the start and end of your work two separate Twists have to be worked, to be grafted together using the Kitchener stitch at the end.

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ijskristal slouchy hat

Ijskristal Slouchy hat

The IJskristal Slouchy Hat is a shapely tam which combines a simple and elegant lace repeat pattern with a wonderful amount of slouch.

Worked in the round from the bottom up, this pattern is available in two sizes. With both written and charted directions for the lace, this hat knits up like a dream. Pair it with the IJskristal Convertible Cowl/Scarf for a lovely coordinating set.


Pay what you want: (minimum €4.90)

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Skills required

The IJskristal Slouchy Hat is worked in the round starting at the rolled edge brim. Stitches used include knit, skp, k2tog, yo, M1 and the centered double decrease sl2-k1-p2sso. The pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and Finished Measurements

To fit size: 51-53.5 (56-58.5) cm, 20-21 (22-23) inches.
Finished size at brim: 45 (49.5) cm, 17.75 (19.5) inches.
Length from brim to crown: 27.5 cm, 11 inches.

Pattern details

  • Bottom-up
  • Written for gauge of approx. 24 sts / 29 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 3 pages (A4 size)

Materials

  • 50 (60) g / 160 (192) m (175 (210) yards of DK weight alpaca yarn. The sample hat features Ice Yarns Pure Alpaca (100% Alpaca; 160 m (175 yds) / 50 g). Substitute for an alpaca yarn of comparable weight for a similar result.
  • Needles in your preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round in the following sizes (or to match gauge): Size 3 mm (US #2 ½) and size 3.5 mm (US #4)
  • Yarn needle
  • 17 (19) stitch markers
  • 1 differently colored end-of-round stitch marker

ijskristal slouchy hat Read More »

garter tab cast on tutorial

Knitting a garter tab cast-on - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Many top-down shawl patterns start with a garter tab cast on. Why? Because it creates a lovely seamless start of any shawl. See for example the start of my Zomer Zilt shawl, pictured above, you almost can’t see where the cast on is! Yes, it can be a bit fiddly to work, especially when working with very skinny yarn. However, don’t let that deter you from knitting patterns that use this cast on: with the below step-by-step instructions and tips you are sure to master this technique.

In this example I used the garter tab instructions as used in Zomer Zilt:

Cast on 2 sts and knit 12 rows. Turn work 90 degrees, then pick up and knit 6 sts from the garter stitch ridges along the long edge. Pick up and knit 2 sts along the cast on edge. (10 sts).

The garter tab cast on step by step

1. Cast on two stitches using your preferred cast-on method. In this example, I’m using the knitted on cast-on.

Garter tab cast on tutorial by La Visch Designs

2. Place markers in each of every CO stitch, this will make it easier to pick them up later on.

Garter tab cast on tutorial by La Visch Designs

3. Work twelve rows in garter stitch (knit every row). This will give you 6 ridges to work into in the following steps. Then turn your work – still on the right-hand needle – 90 degrees clockwise.

Garter tab cast on tutorial by La Visch Designs

4. Using your left-hand needle pick up one stitch in each of the garter ridges along the edge, for a total of 6 stitches. In the picture the purl bumps are picked up, but you could also pick up from the legs of the knit stitches instead. You now have 8 stitches on your right hand needle.

Garter tab cast on tutorial by La Visch Designs

5. Turn your work 90 degrees clockwise again and pick up the two marked stitches along the cast-on edge. These stitches can be a tad hard to see, but because we marked them in step 2 this really isn’t an issue.

Garter tab cast on tutorial by La Visch Designs

There you have it: a garter tab cast on! There are now 10 stitches: 2 stitches on either end which will become the garter edge stitches, and 6 stitches in the middle which will become the body of your shawl. You are now ready to start the rest of your pattern!

Garter tab cast on tutorial by La Visch Designs

garter tab cast on tutorial Read More »

bezaan

bezaan

Inspired by the Dutch seafarers of old, this shawlette owes its distinct asymmetrical shape to the “bezaan” sail of the boats which sail the Zuiderzee. The waters of the Zuiderzee are often treacherous during stormy weather with the winds blowing its waves into dark gray ridges before breaking into heavy froth on the Dutch shores.

The textures of the moving waters are translated into the ridged body pattern and simple lace edging and border. Bezaan: a very different one skein shawl.


Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

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Difficulty level

Stitches used include knit, purl, kfb, M1, yo, p2tog, k2tog tbl. The pattern is suitable for the advanced beginner.

Pattern details

  • Knit sideways from tip to tip
  • One size – easily adjustable
  • Written for a gauge of approx. 18.5 sts / 24 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over body pattern
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 3 pages (A4 size)

Materials needed for Bezaan

  • 400-420 m (437 – 459 yds) / 100 g fingering weight yarn.
  • A circular needle size 4 mm (US #6), 80 cm (32 inches) long.
  • Yarn needle
  • 4 stitch markers

bezaan Read More »

duplicate stitch tutorial

How to work duplicate stitch

Duplicate stitch is a very versatile way of adding a colored decoration to an otherwise plain piece of knitting. For example, as I did with the Sweet as Pi cardigan pictured above. This is done by embroidering a contrast color over the V’s of the knit side of stockinette stitch knitted fabric. In a way, duplicating the stitches that are already there. You can apply a design freehand, or use a charted design. When using a chart, every box represents a stitch.

Working duplicate stitch step by step

To start, thread the yarn through your darning needle and determine where to start the duplicate stitching for optimal placement of the design.

1. Pull the needle through the bottom of the first stitch, from the back of the fabric to the front. Make sure you leave a yarn tail long enough to weave in the ends later on.

duplicate stitch_1

2. Insert the needle from the right to left through both loops of the stitch above.

duplicate stitch_2


3. Insert the needle down through the bottom of the stitch again, this time from the front of the fabric to the back. This step completes your first duplicate stitch.

duplicate stitch_3

4. Repeat steps 1 – 3 as required. Try to keep the tension the same as in the knitted stitches underneath, otherwise, the fabric may pull.

duplicate stitch_4

Below, you can see a sweater I made for my youngest. He wanted a Marshmello picture on the front of it, and using duplicate stitch was for me a better option than intarsia. I’ve embroidered the picture in vertical lines, going from left to right. In the right picture, you can see how it looks on the wrong side of the work. Cool, right?

And that’s how you work duplicate stitch! Did you know it’s also a great way of covering little mistakes in knitting when found after binding off? A good trick to have in your knitter’s toolkit!

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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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moerbei

moerbei

Inspired by the lovely texture and color of almost-ripe moerbei or mulberry fruit, the Moerbei shawl is juicy and sweet and exactly what you need.

Knitted sideways from tip to tip with only 100 g or 420 m (460 yds) of fingering weight yarn, it’s the perfect project for that special skein of yarn. This shawl features both an appealing textured body achieved by working bobbles, as well as a delicate looking and easy to work border. Once the body of the shawl is complete, stitches are picked up for the border and dropped to create the ruffle effect.


Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

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Skills required

This pattern features bobbles, a slipped stitch edge, as well as picking up and knitting stitches for the drop-stitch border. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, kfb, M1 and yo. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Pattern details

  • Top-down
  • One size – easily adjustable
  • Written for gauge of approx. 17 sts / 25 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 3 pages (A4 size)

Materials for Moerbei

  • 420 m (460 yds) / 100 g fingering weight yarn
  • A circular needle size 4 mm (US #6), 80 cm (32 inches) long.
  • Yarn needle
  • 1 stitch marker

moerbei Read More »