knitting

tutorial – working the knit 4 below (k4b) stitch

Working the knit 4 below (k4b) stitch

There are cases in which skipping the row on your needle for particular stitches is desired, and one is to knit or purl in the row below that one. In other words: you knit/purl into the stitch below where you normally would, exactly as the name suggests. Specifically for the bubble stitch, however, we have to work not 1 but 4 stitches below the one on the knitting needle. So that’s what I’ll be showing you in this tutorial on how to work the knit 4 below or k4b stitch.

Materials used

Paintbox Simply DK Tea Rose
Knitting needles - straights

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a knit 4 below (k4b) stitch step by step

In patterns, you may encounter the following description of this stitch:
Knit 4 below (k4b): Take the next stitch off the needle, and drop 4 stitches down. Insert the needle underneath the loose strands from front to back into the stitch 4 rows below the one on the needle. Knit this stitch, then pull the worked stitch and the strands above off the needle together.
But how to actually do this? Read on!

  1. First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the stitch.

    In this case, I’m making the k4b stitch 5 stitches in from the right edge.Step 1 of working the knit 4 below (k4b) stitch

  2. Carefully unravel the column of stitches, until you have 4 loose strands of yarn.

    Step 2

  3. Now, insert the left-hand needle knit wise in the stitch….

    Step 3 of working the knit 4 below (k4b) stitch

  4. … and also place the 4 strands of yarn over the needle.

    This will make it easier to knit the stitch underneath those strands, catching them.Step 4

  5. Insert the right-hand needle knit-wise into the stitch you placed on the left-hand needle.

    Step 5 of working the knit 4 below (k4b) stitch

  6. Now wrap your working yarn around the needle…

    Make sure to do this at the back of the 4 loose strands of yarn.Step 6

  7. …. and pull it through the stitch, and underneath the 4 strands of yarn.

    Step 7 of working the knit 4 below (k4b) stitch

  8. Finish the stitch by slipping the new stitch to the right-hand needle.

    The result of working the knit 4 below (k4b) stitch

And that is how you work the knit 4 below (k4b) stitch!

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tutorial – left twist in stockinette

Tutorial working a Left Twist in stockinette

The basic characteristic of a left twist is that it switches the order of 2 adjoining stitches. One “main stitch” and one “background stitch”. This makes it appear that the main stitch travels to the left. In a previous tutorial, I showed you how to work the left twist used in a stitch pattern from the Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible by Hitomi Shida. However, in that tutorial, I worked the left twist as a single traveling stitch against a background of reverse stockinette. I used the method of manually manipulating the stitches in the correct order. In this tutorial, I will show you a different way to work a left twist, against a background of stockinette stitch:

Skip the next stitch on the left-hand needle, knit into the back loop of the second stitch, leaving the stitch on the needle. Next, bring the right-hand needle to the front of the left-hand needle and knit into the skipped stitch. Pull both loops off of the left needle to finish the stitch.

Materials used

Paintbox Simply DK Lime
Knitting needles - straights

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime Green.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a left twist in stockinette step by step

  1. Do you see the first 2 stitches on the left-hand needle, in the picture below? These are the ones we’re going to work the left twist over.

    In other words: we’re going to switch the order of both knit stitches. This will make it appear that the stitches travel to the left.Step 1 of working a left twist on stockinette

  2. Insert the right-hand needle knit-wise into the back loop of the second stitch on the left-hand needle, skipping the stitch nearest to the tip.

    Step 2

  3. Wrap the yarn around and the needle….

    Step 3 of working a left twist on stockinette

  4. … and pull it through. Do not slip the original stitch off the needle yet!

    Step 4 of working a left twist on stockinette

  5. Next, insert the right-hand needle knit-wise into the stitch that was skipped.

    Step 5

  6. Wrap the yarn around and the needle….

    Step 6

  7. … and pull it through.

    Step 7 of working a left twist on stockinette

  8. To finish the left twist, slide both original stitches off the left-hand needle.

    Step 8 of working a left twist on stockinette

This is the result:

The result of working a left twist on stockinette
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camelia

Camelia shawl by La Visch Designs

In the Camelia shawl, a simple stockinette stitch body is paired with an easy to remember garter stitch based lace border. The contrast in textures is striking, and really highlights the yarn used.

This shawl is knit from the top-down in one piece, starting at the neck edge with a garter tab. The instructions for the border patterning are both charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.95)

€

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Difficulty level

This shawl is worked from the top down, starting with a garter stitch tab. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, yo, RLI, m1l, and m1r increases. This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size: Span width of 176 cm (69 ¼ inches) measured along the upper edge, and a depth of 77 cm (30 ¼ inches), measured after blocking.

The size of the Camelia shawl can be changed by using lighter or heavier yarn and/or working fewer (or more) repeats of the various sections of the shawl. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

  • Gauge: Approx. 14.5 sts / 21 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette stitch, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical for this design but should give you a fabric that you like with the yarn used.
  • Pattern languages included: English.
  • Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)

Yarn

495 m (541 yds) / 150 g Camelia by Filature du Valgaudemar (100% camel; 165 m (180 yds) / 50 g) in “Prune”.

Please note that this specific yarn has been discontinued. Garnstudio DROPS Alpaca (100% alpaca; 167 m (183 yds) / 50 g) would make a good substitute.

Substitute a sport to DK weight yarn in solid or tonal colorways for a similar result. Or, use 150-200 g of fingering weight yarn for a slightly daintier version.

Materials

  • Size 4 mm (US 4) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl. Use needles appropriate for the yarn chosen.
  • 4 stitch markers to indicate the center stitch and the edge stitches
  • Stitch markers to indicate repeats of the lace patterning (optional)
  • Yarn needle

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electric violet

Electric Violet - A knit shawl in pale pink yarn with multicolored speckles, a lace border in deep purple, followed by an edging in twisted rib. It's shown on a mannequin against a white background.

The Electric Violet shawl, was inspired by the gorgeous hand-dyed yarn from RMR Yarn Co. it’s knit with. It combines a relaxing-to-knit stockinette body, with a delightful lace section, followed by a twisted rib edging. The shawl as shown in size L, uses 300 g of fingering weight yarn. A smaller 2 skein shawl (size S in this pattern) is made by omitting the twisted rib section.

This shawl is knit from the top-down in one piece, starting at the neck edge with a garter stitch tab. The instructions for the lace are both charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.95)

€

Add to cart

Difficulty level

This shawl is worked from the top down, starting with a garter stitch tab. The patterning in the edging is worked on both right side and wrong side rows.

Stitches used include knit, purl, k tbl, p tbl, skp, k2tog, k2tog tbl, p2tog, p2tog tbl, yo and a wrapped stitch. This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Size S (L): Wingspan of 196 (235) cm (77 ¼ (92 ½) inches) and a depth of 89 (106) cm (35 (41 ¾) inches), measured after blocking. The shawl pictured is a size L.

The size of the Electric Violet shawl can be changed by using lighter or heavier yarn and/or working fewer (or more) repeats of the various sections of the shawl. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed. 

Pattern details

  • Gauge: Approx. 14 sts / 25 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette stitch, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical for this design but should give you a fabric that you like with the yarn used.
  • Pattern languages included: English.
  • Digital PDF has 7 pages (letter size)

Yarn

RMR Yarn Co. Micaela (75% SW extra fine merino, 25% Mulberry silk; 400 m (437 yds) / 100 g) in the following colors and quantities:
C1: 400 (800) m (437 (874) yds) / 100 (200) g) in Para Harumi
C2: 400 (400) m (437 (437) yds) / 100 (100) g) in Jalea De Uva

Substitute a fingering weight yarn in a speckled color for C1, and a solid or tonal colorway for C2 for a similar result.

Materials

  • Size 3.5 mm (US 4) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl. Use needles appropriate for the yarn chosen.
  • 4 stitch markers to indicate the center stitch and the edge stitches
  • Cable needle
  • Stitch markers to indicate repeats of the lace patterning (optional)
  • Yarn needle

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fixing damage in ready-made knitwear

Fixing damage in ready-made knitwear - by La Visch Designs

Last week, I was approached by a colleague about fixing damage in a garment: she had bought this lovely gold knit cardigan. But when she came home, she found this large laddered down area at the back neck of the garment. She could, of course, bring it back to the store, but it was the very last one they had available in her size. So, she approached me to see if I could perhaps fix it.

I must admit that I’m not too keen on mending, in the sense that I don’t particularly enjoy the process of mending itself. The concept of mending, however, is something I very much endorse. One of the best ways to minimize your environmental footprint, is to make sure to maximize the lifespan of the products you use. When examining this particular garment, mending actually seemed doable because it was indeed regular knitting, and not some complex machine-knit tuck-stitch. And it gave me an opportunity to show you that sometimes ready-made knitwear can be fixed just as nicely as our hand knits can.

So, I gave it a go! In this post, I’ll show you exactly what I did.

Helpful materials

To start, it is pretty handy to have some tools available to make fixing the mistake easier. I used the following:

  • A circular knitting needle, in a smallish size. Here I used 2.5 mm.
  • A crochet hook.
  • Some pins.
  • A pillow.
  • A darning needle.
  • A ball of yarn in a somewhat matching weight and color.

In this fix, I also used some new yarn, because I noticed that the top edge of the garment was consisted of a single thread of yarn holding the live stitches of the back panel. What probably happened, is that the thread snapped near the right shoulder, releasing the stitches and enabling them to run down. I was lucky that the stitches were caught before they ran through the bit of garter stitch below the first lace panel. In other words: the upper edge really needs some reinforcement.

Yarn used in the fix.

The pillow and pins were used to make sure that your work stays exactly where you need it to be. Also, it helps to see the mistake better when pinned out, instead of all scrunched up like lace tends to be before blocking.

On to the fixing!

  1. To start, I first examined the work. The lace consists of some sort of patterning involving double yarn overs, as well as left- and right-leaning decreases. So, this is the patterning I somehow have to try to replicate.

    Step 1

  2. Once had a picture on how to work the patterning back up, I pinned out my knitting on the pillow as described in this other post of mine, and followed the various steps using my circular needle. I ended up with the below situation.

    It’s not perfect, but being on the back of the garment, I think it’s good enough.Step 2 of fixing

  3. Next, I used the new yarn to bind off these worked-up stitches using the crochet hook and a slip stitch bind-off.

    Step 3

  4. Next, I continued reinforcing the rest of the back panel by edging it with a row of single crochet.

    Step 4 of fixing damage

  5. It’s a bit hard to see in the above picture, but the newly bound-off part is not as high and looks a bit different from the rest of the edge. So, I also worked a bit of single crochet over that part of the edge. Better!

    Step 5 of fixing damage

  6. Finally, I checked the garment for other potentially weak spots. And yes, I did find them… The shoulder seams were serged, but the finishing was such that the edges of the serged length were unraveling due to a lack of enough locking thread.

    So, I fixed that too on both shoulder seams.Fixing the shoulder seams

And there you have it, this is how I went about fixing damage in this garment! A fixed ready-made cardigan that can now at least be worn. I think my colleague will be happy!

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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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koi in the pond

Koi in the Pond - A knit shawl in turquoise, orange, and variegated yarn. Shown from the front on a mannequin against a white background.

The yarn, used in this shawl, reminds me of koi carp swimming in water in which the surface is rippling in the wind. Hence, the name “Koi in the Pond”. This design is knit sideways on the bias, making a shallow and asymmetrical triangle, perfect for wearing as an elegant scarf. The combination of garter stitch in a variegated hand-dyed yarn and simple lace makes it a perfect choice to get the best of both worlds.

The instructions for the patterning are, of course, both charted and fully written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.95)

€

Add to cart

Difficulty level

This asymmetric shawl is knit sideways, starting with a small number of stitches. Every 2 rows, the stitch count is increased by 1 stitch. Stitches used include knit, purl, yo, k2tog, skp, kfb, m1, a centered double decrease, a 7 into 9 gathered stitch, a 9 into 1 increase and a 5 to 1 decrease. This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Finished dimensions of the sample shawl: 207 cm (81 ½ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 69 cm (27 ¼ inches), measured after blocking.

The Koi in the Pond shawl can be made larger by adding more repeats of the garter stitch and/or by working more repeats in the lace section. This will, of course, increase the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

  • Gauge: Approx. 15 sts / 22 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over garter stitch, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical for this design but should give you a fabric that you like with the yarn used.
  • Pattern languages included: English.
  • Digital PDF has 6 pages (letter size)

Yarn

C1: 1 skein Mina Dyeworks Socksanity (75% Merino, 25% Nylon; 420 m (459 yds) / 100 g) in “Turquoise and Brown”.
C2: 168 m (184 yds) / 40 g Alize Superwash Artisan (75% Merino, 25% Nylon; 420 m (459 yds) / 100 g) in 336 “Orange”.
C3: 147 m (161 yds) / 35 g Alize Superwash Artisan (75% Merino, 25% Nylon; 420 m (459 yds) / 100 g) in 9012 “Variegated”.

Substitute any variegated fingering weight yarn for C1 and any solid or tonal colored fingering weight yarn for C2 and C3 for a similar result.

Please note that C2 and C3 were alternated in the sample shawl to achieve the desired color. A total of 315 m (344 yds) / 75 g of a single contrast color can be used instead if desired.

Materials

  • Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl.
  • Removable stitch marker to denote the RS of the shawl (optional)
  • Stitch markers to indicate repeats of the lace patterning (optional)
  • Yarn needle

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stitch pattern – stockinette ridge stitch

Stockinette ridge stitch by La Visch Designs

The stockinette ridge stitch is a stitch pattern, that uses increases and decreases to make a wonderful textured fabric. Due to the decreases in one of the 4 rows of the pattern repeat, this stitch pattern is less stretchy than regular stockinette. Just something to be beware of! This stitch pattern is worked in a multiple of 2 stitches. Please note that in the above picture, I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Paintbox Simply DK Tea Rose
Knitting needles - straights

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

  • k – knit
  • k2tog – knit two stitches together
  • kfb – knit in the front and then in the back of the stitch
  • p – purl
  • rep – repeat

Stockinette ridge stitch instructions

Row 1 (right side): Knit.
Row 2 (wrong side): *K2tog; rep from * to end.
Row 3: *Kfb; rep from * end.
Row 4: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern.

The stockinette ridge stitch as shown from the front:

Stockinette ridge stitch from the RS

The stockinette ridge stitch as shown from the back:

Stockinette ridge stitch from the WS
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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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stitch pattern – knitting 4-stitch cables

Knitting 4-stitch cables

With cable knitting, you usually work stitches in stockinette against a background of either garter stitch or reverse stockinette. The cables themselves are worked in stockinette, and once every few rows the order of those stitches on your knitting needle is changed. For example, when 4 stitches appear on the needle in the order ABCD, one might cross the first two the next two, so that in subsequent rows those stitches appear in the new order CDAB. These crossings are what gives cables their characteristic look.

Stitch patterns with cables can be very complex. In this stitch pattern, however, I show you a simple 2/2 RC, and a 2/2 LC cable. This stitch pattern is worked in a multiple of 12 + 2 stitches. Please note that in the above picture, I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Paintbox Simply DK Vintage Pink
Knitting needles - straights

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

You will also need a cable needle in a similar or slightly smaller size as your knitting needles. Unless, of course, you’re going to work the cables without a cable needle. In a future tutorial, I will show you how to do this.

Stitches used

  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • 2/2 LC (2/2 left-cross cable): Slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and place at front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
  • 2/2 RC (2/2 right-cross cable): Slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and place at back of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

4-stitch cable instructions

Row 1 (right side): * (P2, k4) twice; rep from * to 2 sts before end, p2. (14 sts)

Row 2: (wrong side): K2, * (p4, k2) twice; rep from * to end.

Row 3: * P2, 2/2 RC, p2, 2/2 LC*; rep from * to 2 sts before end, p2.

Row 4: K2, * (p4, k2) twice; rep from * to end.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern.

Chart with the 4-stitch cables
4-stitch cables from the RS
4-stitch cables from the RS.
4-stitch cables from the WS
4-stitch cables from the WS.
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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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tutorial – 7 into 9 gathered stitch

7 into 9 gathered stitch

The 7 into 9 gathered stitch takes 7 stitches, and increases these to 9 stitches. The increase is done in such a way, that it looks like the fabric is “gathered” in the middle. You may encounter gathers in Estonian lace knitting, they are a distinctive feature of this type of lace. Gathers come in many different configurations. In some versions, the stitch counts stay the same, in some the stitch counts decrease or increase.

Read on to see how the 7 into 9 gathered stitch is worked.

Materials used

Paintbox Simply DK Tea Rose
Knitting needles - straights

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the 7 into 9 gathered stitch step by step

  1. To start, work as instructed by your pattern until the point where you want to make the gather.

    Step 1 of working a centered 5 to 1 decrease

  2. First, insert your right-hand needle into the 4th stitch on the left-hand needle as if to purl.

    Step 1 of working a 7 into 9 gathered stitch

  3. Next, pull this stitch over the 3 stitches near the tip, and off the needle.

    Step 2 of working a 7 into 9 gathered stitch

  4. Repeat step 3 another 3 times for a total of 4 stitches that are pulled over the set of 3 stitches near the tip of the needle.

    Step 3 of working a 7 into 9 gathered stitch

  5. Next, insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle as if to knit…

    Step 5 of working a 7 into 9 gathered stitch

  6. … wrap the yarn around the needle …

    Step 6 of working a 7 into 9 gathered stitch

  7. … and pull it through. Do not slip the stitch off the needle yet!

    Step 7 of working a 7 into 9 gathered stitch

  8. Next, wrap the yarn around the needle.

    Step 8 of working a 7 into 9 gathered stitch

  9. Repeat steps 5, 6 and 7, and slip the original stitch off the needle. In essence, you’re working a (k1, yo, k1) increase into the stitch. Check below for the result after this last step.

    Step 9 of working a 7 into 9 gathered stitch

  10. Repeat steps 5 to 9 for each of the other 2 wrapped stitches. In other words: after these steps, you’ve worked (k1, yo, k1) in each of the 3 wrapped stitches, bringing the total stitch count up to 9 stitches.

    After this, continue with your knitting as instructed in the pattern. Step 10 of working a 7 into 9 gathered stitch

View the result, when the row has been finished and a purl row has also been worked, below. I think it’s pretty neat!

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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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diamanten

Diamanten - a shawl by La Visch Designs

Diamanten is a semicircle Pi shawl, worked in a luxury hand-dyed merino and tencel yarn. The combination of simple stockinette and slip-stitch diamond patterning really lets this tonal yarn shine! However, This shawl is equally lovely when worked in solid colors or even variegated ones.

This shawl is worked from the top-down and is started with a garter stitch tab. The instructions for the patterning are, of course, both charted and fully written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.95)

€

Add to cart

Difficulty level

The Diamanten half-circle shawl is knit from the top down, starting with a garter tab cast-on. Stitches used include knit, purl, m1bl, m1p, k2tog, and the k1 under loose strands stitch. This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Finished dimensions of the sample shawl: Span width of 193 cm (76 inches) and a depth of 73 cm (28 ¾ inches), measured after blocking.

Adjust the size of this shawl by using lighter or heavier yarn and/or working fewer (or more) repeats of the various sections. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

  • Gauge: Approx. 13 sts / 21 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical for this design but should give you a fabric that you like with the yarn used.
  • Pattern languages included: English.
  • Digital PDF has 5 pages (letter size)

Yarn

Hearthside Fibers Crystal (50% Merino, 50% Tencel; 377 m (412 yds)/ 113 g) in the following colors and amounts:

C1: 377 m (412 yds)/ 113 g in “Lake”
C2: 377 m (412 yds)/ 113 g in “Vermont”

Substitute a tonal fingering to sport weight yarn for a similar result.

Materials

  • Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl.
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch markers (optional, for use between repeats of the diamond patterning)

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