knitting

tutorial – making a slipknot

making a slipknot - by La Visch Designs

I know, it seems so basic: making a slipknot to start casting on your knitting project. But that’s only because once you know how to do it, it’s easy! And yes, I know it’s possible to start casting on without a slipknot, and that it’s sometimes to be preferred because it doesn’t give that extra knot on your cast-on edge. But that’s not the point here.

Most of the times I still start my knitting projects with a slipknot, even though I know how to do it without. I guess I just like that sturdy start of my cast-on edge! In this post, I’m going to show you how to do make a slipknot around a knitting needle yourself.

Making a slipknot step-by-step

1. Loop the yarn as shown in the picture below.

Making a slipknot - by La Visch Designs

2. Next, arrange the yarn tail in such a way, that you can pull it through the first loop, like this:

Making a slipknot - by La Visch Designs

3. Insert your knitting needle as shown, underneath the arranged bit of yarn tail.

Making a slipknot - by La Visch Designs

4. Now hold both the yarn tail and the yarn going back to the ball of yarn and pull them both to tighten the slipknot around the needle.

Making a slipknot - by La Visch Designs

5. And there you have it: a lovely slipknot around your needle! You’re now ready to start casting on the remaining stitches needed for your project. You can for example use the knitted-on cast-on for this.

Making a slipknot - by La Visch Designs

Of course, it can be hard to visualize the motions needed to realize the above. For that very reason, I’ve also made a short video in which I show you how I make slipknots around my knitting needle. It doesn’t contain a spoken commentary, it’s really only to show you the motions!

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art deco

Art Deco shawl

Art Deco is a crescent-shaped shawl worked from the top-down. The stylized flowers as commonly used in France, in the early days of Art Deco, inspired the flowers in the border of this design.

The shawl starts with a garter stitch tab. The body contains special shaping, which helps to avoid the “bump” in the upper edge of the shawl, so often present in crescent shawl designs. The lace in the border is knit on both right side and wrong side rows. The instructions for the border of the shawl are provided both fully charted and written out.


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Difficulty level

The Art Deco shawl starts with a garter stitch tab. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, p2tog, p2tog tbl, skp, yo and m1L and m1R increases. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size: Finished dimensions of the sample shawl: 191 cm (75 ¼ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 58 cm (22 ¾ inches), measured after blocking.

Pattern details

  • Gauge: Approx. 15 sts / 18 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette, measured after blocking. While gauge is not critical in this design, a loose gauge gives the best result.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 6 pages (letter size)

Materials

  • Yarn: Brooklyn Tweed Loft (100% Targhee-Columbia; 251 m (275 yds) / 50 g) in the following colors and amounts:
    MC: 251 m (275 yds) / 50 g in Faded Quilt
    CC: 502 m (550 yds) / 100 g in Camper
  • Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles
  • Yarn needle
  • 2 stitch markers to indicate the center stitches
  • Stitch markers for the lace section (optional)

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tutorial: garter tab CO for top-down crescents

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Many top-down shawl patterns start with a garter tab cast-on because it creates a lovely seamless start of any shawl. Most people will be familiar with this cast-on for traditional top-down triangle shawls. A tutorial on working such a garter tab cast-on can be found here. But what to do when starting a top-down crescent type shawl?

This type of shawl usually has a different increase rate when compared with traditional triangles. With the latter, the stitch count is increased by 4 on all right-side rows. With a top-down crescent though, increases are worked on both right side and wrong side rows: the stitch count is increased by 4 stitches on right-side rows and by 2 on wrong-side rows. When the wrong-side row increases are yarn overs, you get a rather decorative eyelet edge to your shawl. This makes it, however, harder to make your garter tab blend in invisibly. And this is where this tutorial on knitting garter tab CO for top-down crescents comes in!

As with all garter tabs, they can be a bit fiddly to work, especially when working with very skinny yarn. However, don’t let that deter you from knitting patterns that use this cast on: with the below step-by-step instructions and tips you are sure to master this technique.

In this example I used the following garter tab instructions, to get a 7 stitch start including 2 edge stitches on each side:

CO 2 sts and knit 6 rows. Turn work 90 degrees clockwise, yo, then pick up 1 st from the second (middle) garter stitch ridge along the long edge and twist this st 360 degrees counterclockwise, then purl it, yo. Pick up and knit 2 sts along the cast on edge. (7 sts).

Materials

Besides yarn and knitting needles I’m also using 3 removable stitch markers, one preferably in a different color or size.

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

The garter tab CO for top-down crescents step by step

1. Cast-on two stitches using your preferred cast-on method. In this example, I’m using the knitted on cast-on. Place markers in each of every cast-on stitch, this will make it easier to pick them up later on. I attached them to the back legs of the stitches to keep the markers out of the way.

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

2. Work 6 rows in garter stitch (knit every row). This will give you 3 ridges.

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

3. Then turn your work – still on the right-hand needle – 90 degrees clockwise and yo.

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

4. Next, insert the remaining stitch marker in the purl bump from the middle of the 3  garter ridges along the edge.

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

5. Use the stitch marker to twist the stitch it is inserted in 360 degrees counterclockwise (2 twists).

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

6. Next, insert the left-hand needle in the twisted stitch ….

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

7. …. and purl this stitch. The reason I’m purling this stitch here is that it makes sure that after casting on I can continue straight away with a right side row for stockinette. If you want reverse stockinette or garter stitch, this stitch should be knit instead of purled. It looks like this after this step:

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

8. Next, yo again.

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

9. Turn your work 90 degrees clockwise again and pick up and knit the first marked stitch along the cast-on edge. These stitches can be a tad hard to see, but because we marked them in step 1 this really isn’t an issue.

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

10. Now pick up and knit the second marked stitch along the cast-on edge.

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

11. There you have it: a garter tab CO for top-down crescents! There are now 7 stitches: 2 stitches on either end which will become the garter edge stitches, and 3 stitches in the middle which will become the body of your shawl. You are now ready to start the rest of your pattern!

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In the little swatch shown below, I’ve knitted some more rows in the following format:

Row 1 (RS): K2, (k1, yo, k1) in next st, k to 3 sts before end, (k1, yo, k1) in next st, k2.
Row 2 (WS): K2, yo, p to 2 sts before end, yo, k2.

Do you see how well this garter tab cast-on blends in? I can’t see where the cast-on ends and the rest of the shawl begins! And that’s how I like it.

Garter tab CO for top-down crescents - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

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chocolate raspberry waffles

Chocolate Raspberry Waffles cowl

The Chocolate Raspberry Waffles cowl is just the pattern for those times that you want a mindless knit. Using slip-stitch patterning, it’s designed to break up the color pooling and flashing often seen with hand-dyed yarns.

This cowl is worked in the round. The pattern is suitable for the advanced beginner.


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Difficulty level

This cowl is worked in the round. Stitches used include knit, purl and slip stitches. This pattern is suitable for the advanced beginner.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size – finished dimensions: Height of 42 cm (16 ½ inches) and 66 cm (26 inches) circumference, measured after blocking.

Pattern details

  • Chocolate Raspberry Waffles is written for a gauge of approx. 22 sts / 35 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over body pattern, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical in this design.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 2 pages (letter size)

Materials

  • Yarn: 420 m (459 yds) / 100 g Sticks & Cups Socksanity (75% wool, 25% nylon; 420 m (459 yds) / 100 g). Substitute any variegated hand-dyed fingering weight yarn for a similar result.
  • Size 4 mm (US 6) / 60 cm (24 inches) circular needles
  • Yarn needle
  • 1 “end-of-round” stitch marker

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arugula

Arugula shawl

Arugula is a shawl in 2 sizes, designed to use the lovely rustic tweedy yarn pictured in the sample. In this design, it is paired with a flouncy ribbed ruffle in a contrasting solid color. A relatively mindless knitting project that gives a wonderful end result.

This shawl is knitted from the top-down in one piece, starting at the neck edge with a garter tab. The instructions for the body of the shawl are provided charted and written out. The ruffled edging is written only.


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Difficulty level

This shawl is started with a garter stitch tab. Stitches used include knit, purl, yo and m1bl. This pattern is suitable for the beginning knitter to intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Size S (L) finished dimensions: Wingspan of 146 (200) cm (57 ½ (78 ¾) inches) and a depth of 68 (90) cm (26 ¾ (35 ½) inches), measured after blocking. The shawl shown is in size L.

Pattern details

  • Arugula is written for a gauge of approx. 12.7 sts / 26 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over body pattern, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical in this design.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)

Materials

  • Yarn: Debbie Bliss Fine Donagal (95% wool, 5% cashmere goat; 379 m (415 yds) / 100 g) in the following colors and amounts:
    MC: 201 (379) m (220 (415 yds) / 55 (100) g in 54012 blackberry
    CC: 285 (379) m (312 (415) yds) / 75 (100) g in 54018 lilac
    Substitute any tweed fingering weight yarn for a similar result.
  • Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles
  • Size 5 mm (US 8) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles (optional, for BO only).
  • Yarn needle
  • 4 stitch markers to indicate the center and edge stitches

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tangerine tango

Tangerine Tango shawl

Tangerine Tango is a stylish triangular shawl knit sideways on the bias. The combination of striped garter stitch and lace makes it a perfect choice for those colors of fingering weight yarn that combine so well. With its generous size of 177 cm (69 ¾ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 63 cm (24 ¾ inches), it is perfect to wear as an elegant scarf.

This pattern contains both fully written out as well as charted instructions for the lace section. The lace in the border is worked on both right side and wrong side rows. The shawl can be made larger by adding more repeats of the striped garter stitch section and/or by working more repeats of the lace section.


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Difficulty level

The lace in this pattern is worked on both RS and WS rows. Stitches used include knit, purl, yo, k2tog, p2tog, kfb and versions of these stitches knitted through the back loop. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Finished dimensions of the sample shawl: 177 cm (69 ¾ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 63 cm (24 ¾ inches), measured after blocking.

Pattern details

  • Tangerine Tango is written for a gauge of approx. 18 sts / 26 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over garter stitch, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical in this design.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)

Materials

  • Yarn: MC: 420 m (460 yds) / 100 g Wools of Holland Kempische Sokkenwol (75% Wool, 25% Nylon; 210 m (230 yds) / 50 g) in Sky Blue.
    CC: 210 m (230 yds) / 50 g Wollträume Traumsterne Sockenwolle (75% Wool, 25% Nylon; 210 m (230 yds) / 50 g) in Orange.
    Substitute any fingering weight yarn for a similar result.
  • Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles
  • Yarn needle
  • 2 stitch markers to indicate the 3 edge stitches on each side (optional)
  • 19 stitch markers (optional) to mark the repeats of the lace pattern

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fish for Amiga

Fish for Amiga - a knitting pattern by La Visch Designs

My cat Amiga is crazy about Moeke Yarns Elena. And by crazy I mean the drooling and acting weird kind of crazy. I think it must be the slight sheepiness this yarn has. So, I thought I would make her day by creating something just for her made from this lovely yarn. The result: Fish for Amiga!

These small fish for Amiga are knit in the round. After closing the body, knit the tail flat back and forth. A photo tutorial on how to close the body of the fish is included in the pattern. Since only small amounts of yarn are used, this pattern is perfect for stash busting little odds and ends.


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Difficulty level

Techniques used include Judy’s Magic Cast On and knitting in the round. Stitches used include knit, purl, skp, k2tog and m1. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Size S (L): Height of 3.5 (6.5) cm (1 ½ (2 ½ ) inches) and a length of 9 (14) cm (3 ½ (5 ½ ) inches).

Pattern details

  • The gauge should be such that your stitches are tight enough not to show the stuffing. For the sample fish: 11 sts / 15 rows = 5 cm (2 inches) over stockinette.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)

Materials

  • Approx. 13 (33) m (15 (36) yds) / 4 (10) g of Moeke Yarns Elena Single (100% wool; 330 m (361 yds) / 100 g) in the sample Fish for Amiga. Substitute a sport to DK weight yarn for a similar result.
  • Needles in your preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round. For the sample fish: Size 3 mm (US 2 ½) needles.
  • 1 extra needle in the same size as your main needles.
  • 4 stitch markers
  • 1 differently colored “end of round” marker
  • Fiberfill
  • Yarn needle

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duizendknoop

Duizendknoop shawl

Duizendknoop: A shallow, triangle scarf, knit sideways. This design features a simple garter stitch body. The triangle edging, so reminiscent of the leaves of the Duizendknoop (Persicaria perfoliata), is knitted on at the same time. Worked at a loose gauge, Duizendknoop is a lovely and airy layering piece.

While written for a single skein of fingering weight yarn, this pattern can easily be adjusted for different amounts and weights of yarn. Instructions for the lace border are both written and charted.


Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

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Difficulty level

This pattern features a garter stitch body with a lace edging worked simultaneously. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, skp, kfb, m1 and yo. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Finished dimensions of the sample shawl: 195 cm (76 ¾ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 39 cm (15 ¼ inches), measured after blocking. Make the shawl larger by working more sections of the body pattern.

Pattern details

  • Duizendknoop is written for a gauge of approx. 18 sts / 22 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over garter stitch, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical in this design.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 5 pages (letter size)

Materials

  • 1 skein of Sock Marl by Dutch Wool Diva (50% Wool, 50% alpaca 400 m (437 yds) / 100 g) in “Kelp”. Substitute any fingering weight yarn in a semi-solid color for a similar result.
  • Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles
  • Yarn needle
  • 1 stitch marker

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tutorial: knit rick rack rib in the round

Knit rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

I’ve written it before in this tutorial on how to knit the rick rack rib flat: sometimes a less boring finishing of a project than plain old 2×2 rib is just what the doctor ordered. In this post, I’m going to show you how to knit rick rack rib in the round.

As with the flat worked version of this stitch, the characteristic zig-zag texture is obtained by the knitting the stitches in a different order than they appear on the needle. Rick rack rib worked in the round is knitted as a multiple of 3 stitches.  The main difference with the flat worked version is, of course, that there are no WS rows when working the round.

In short, the instructions for this stitch worked in the round consist of the following 2 rounds:

Round 1: *Purl 1, skip the first stitch, knit in the back loop of the second stitch (do not slip this stitch off the needle), knit into the front loop of the first stitch and now slip both knitted stitches of the needle; repeat from * to end of the round.

Round 2: *Purl 1, skip the first stitch, knit in the front loop of the second stitch (do not slip this stitch off the needle), knit into the front loop of the first stitch and now slip both knitted stitches from the needle; repeat from * to end of the round.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 to the desired height.

How to knit rick rack rib in the round step by step

Round 1
1. Purl 1 stitch.

Rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

2. Skip the first stitch and insert your needle int the second stitch on the needle in the back loop.

Rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

3. Wrap the yarn around the needle as usual…

Rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

4. … and pull through to complete knitting this stitch. Do not slip this stitch off the left-hand needle just yet!

Rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

5. Knit into the front loop of the first stitch that you skipped in step 2.

Rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

6. Then slip both knitted stitches from the needle. Do you see how the 2 stitches combined slant to the left?

Rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

7. Repeat steps 1 to 6 the end of the round.

Round 2
8. Purl 1 stitch.

Rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

9. Skip the first stitch and insert the needle as if to knit in the second stitch on the left-hand needle. This can be a tad fiddly!

Rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

10. Twist the right-hand needle so that is behind the left-hand needle and wrap the yarn around.

Rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

11. Next pull the yarn through, but do not slip this stitch off the needle just yet!

Rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

12. Knit the first stitch that you skipped in step 9….

Rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

13. ….then slip both knitted stitches from the needle. The 2 knitted stitches combined in this round produce a right-slanting result!

Rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

14. Repeat steps 8 to 13 to the end of the round. And this is how to knit rick rack rib in the round!

On the outside of the work, it will look something like this:

Rick rack rib in the round - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In case your project ends with rick-rack rib, you can bind-off after row 2 by binding off in purl 1, knit 2 pattern.

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fixing a mistake in lace knitting

Fixing a mistake in lace knitting - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

This post is all about my recent confrontation with fixing a mistake in lace knitting. As you may have seen if you’re following me on Instagram or Facebook, I’ve been happily knitting along on my latest design using Nurturing Fibres Super Twist Sock in “Odette” and “humbug”. I got mine from Wol zo Eerlijk, a lovely store with lots of environmentally friendly and fair trade yarns. Anyway, there I was, in the home stretch, with only 10 more rows of edging to go before the bind off. It was then that I saw it: a mistake in my lace, 9 rows down!

When I found the mistake in the pink border of my Pink Monarda shawl pictured, I had about 320 stitches per row. So no, I was not going to rip out all that work! Instead, I dropped down only 8 stitches to the place where I made the mistake. After that was correcting the error, followed by knitting everything back up to the row I was on.

In this post, I’ll show you exactly what I did!

Helpful materials

To start, it is pretty handy to have some tools available to make fixing the mistake easier. I used the following:

  • A set of DPN’s (double pointed needles) in the same size as the needles used in your project, or smaller.
  • A crochet hook.
  • Some pins.
  • A pillow.
Fixing a mistake in lace knitting with La Visch Designs

The pillow and pins were used to make sure that your work stays exactly where you need it to be. Also, it helps to see the mistake better when pinned out, instead of all scrunched up like lace tends to be before blocking.

On to the fixing!

1. To start, I pinned out my knitting on the pillow. I did this in such a way that I could clearly see a repeat of the lace pattern that was knitted correctly, as well as the one with the mistake in it. I slipped some of the stitches on one of the DPN’s to help fixate the whole better on the pillow. Can you see in the picture below where the mistake is?

Fixing a mistake in lace knitting with La Visch Designs

2. The mistake is in the left half of the repeat, near the 4th yarn over, counted from the needle. Can you see it? In the picture below, I have indicated it with the circle.

Fixing a mistake in lace knitting with La Visch Designs

3. In this particular case, it wasn’t necessary to drop down the whole repeat. Instead, I only dropped the 8 stitches on the left half of the repeat. I dropped down until I reached the purl row exactly below the row with the mistake in it.

When approaching the row below the mistake, I stopped ripping back and started to carefully tink (tink = knit backward!) further back, catching the released stitches with another DPN. It is especially important to do it like this when working with very slippery yarn. If you don’t take care, the knitting may run deeper down than desired, thus increasing the amount of fixing to do.

The yarn from every row dropped, I pinned to the pillow, going from left to right. This made sure nothing got tangled, and I could easily count the number of dropped down rows. This, in turn, made it easier to see where to pick up the chart when knitting it back up.

Fixing a mistake in lace knitting with La Visch Designs

4. Then it was a matter of knitting back in pattern. As you can see, you use the free loop of yarn, just as you would use the thread running to the ball of yarn. If you find it challenging to catch the thread correctly to pull it through a stitch, you can always use the crochet hook to assist with this.

Fixing a mistake in lace knitting with La Visch Designs

5. Because of the way I manipulated the yarn through the stitches, some of the stitches got mounted twisted. In the picture below, you can see that the left leg of the stitch is in front of the needle, instead of at the back. This really is no problem, but it is something to pay attention to. To correct this, I knitted these twisted stitches through the back loop.

Fixing a mistake in lace knitting with La Visch Designs

6. And here you see the result: all fixed! The loose stitches you can see next to the re-knitted stitches are because of the tension on those threads when manipulating the dropped down stitches. This should, however, correct itself during blocking. If it’s still a tad visible, you can redistribute the excess yarn a bit over the various stitches.

Fixing a mistake in lace knitting with La Visch Designs

7. And this is how to go about fixing a mistake in lace knitting. Now on to knitting those final rows of this shawl…

Fixing a mistake in lace knitting with La Visch Designs

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