knitting Archives - Page 6 of 18

Shoreham-by-Sea tee

The gorgeous linen yarn in the tee pictured, I bought when visiting Sally in Shoreham-by-Sea some years ago. What better to use it for than a simple top-down tee with a circular yoke construction? The top is completely seamless, with subtle star stitch patterning in the yoke, and neat twisted rib edgings. Worked in a 100% linen yarn, this top is a dream to wear in warm weather. Moreover, it also works great as a layering piece!

Instructions for 11 sizes are included, with finished bust measurements ranging from 81 to 152 cm (32 to 59.75 inches).

Pay what you want: (minimum €8.50)

€

Difficulty level

Stitches used include knit, purl, knit tbl, k2tog, skp, yo, k3tog, m1l and m1r. This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

The Shoreham-by-Sea tee pattern is available in 11 sizes: Size 0 (1, 2, 3, 4) [5, 6, 7] {8, 9, 10} with a finished bust measurement of 83 (91, 97, 105, 109.5) [115.5, 122, 131.5] {137.5, 145.5, 152} cm or 32.75 (35.75, 38.25, 41.25, 43) [45.5, 48, 51.75] {54.25, 57.25, 59.75} inches. For more measurements, please see the schematic in the picture gallery.

The tee is intended to be worn with approx. 5 -10 cm (2-4 inches) of positive ease at the full bust. The sample in size 2 shown is worn with 6 cm (2.25 inches) of positive ease.

Pattern details

Gauge: 22.7 sts / 30 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette stitch on larger needles, measured after blocking.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 6 pages (letter size)

Yarn

Yarn used in the sample Shoreham-by-Sea tee: 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) [6, 7, 7] {8, 8, 9} balls of Rowan Pure Linen (100% linen (flax); 130 m (142 yds) / 50 g) in 399 Patagonian.

Alternatively, use: 512 (572, 608, 676, 710) [770, 809, 910] {967, 1035, 1100} m (559 (625, 665, 738, 775) [841, 883, 994] {1056, 1130, 1201} yds) / 197 (220, 234, 260, 273) [296, 311, 350] {372, 398, 423} g of yarn with good drape of approx. sport weight that knits up to the pattern gauge, in solid colors for a similar result. Cotton and cotton blends will work well.

Materials

Knitting needles:
- Size 2.5 mm (US 1.5) / 60 cm (24 inches) and 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles, or a size 0.5 mm (or the US equivalent) smaller than the size needed to get gauge
- A size 3 mm (US 2.5) / 60 cm (24 inches) and 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles, or the size needed to get gauge
- Size 3 mm (US 2.5) and 2.5 mm (US 1.5) needles in your preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round
Yarn needle
4 stitch markers
1 different “end of round” stitch marker
Waste yarn or stitch holder

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tutorial – seaming with mattress stitch

There are many ways to join two pieces of knitted fabric together, all with their own advantages and disadvantages. In this post, I’ll be talking about working the mattress stitch. This technique is particularly suited for joining pieces in stockinette stitch on the vertical edge of the work. It will also work splendidly with other stitch patterns, as long as there is a column of knit stitches right at the edge that you want to join with another piece. Examples of where I used mattress stitch, include closing up sleeves that were worked flat, and connecting the front and back pieces of sweaters.

Personally, I find mattress stitch more time-consuming than, for example, working a crochet join. However, it has a very important benefit: it’s virtually invisible on the right side of the fabric, although it does create a ridge on the wrong side of the work. Also, it’s very satisfying to see the fabric closing up when pulling the thread!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

Darning needle: Hiya Hiya Darn It Yarn Needle, or any other tapestry needle, threaded with yarn.

Working mattress stitch step by step

Before we can start, we have to measure out a length of the working yarn. For this, a length of approx. twice the length of the edge that you want to bind-off is advised. If long enough, you could also use the yarn tail left over from casting on or binding off. This will give less ends to weave in later on.

When you have measured out the length of yarn, break it, and thread it onto the darning needle.

First, make sure you have your work in front of you, with the right side facing.
In the picture below, you can see that I did not block my swatch before making the pictures for this tutorial. When using this technique on a project, though, blocking could make it easier to see the stitches you want to seam into.
To start, insert the darning needle directly to the right of the first column of stitches, from bottom to top, underneath the thread that runs between the two columns of stitches.
You can also start with the left piece of fabric. In that case, insert the needle underneath the thread to the left of the column of knit stitches at the edge of the piece. Don’t forget to leave a long enough yarn tail to weave in later on, if you’re not using a yarn tail for seaming.
Next, insert the darning needle directly to the left of the first column of stitches on the other piece of fabric. Again, from bottom to top, underneath the thread that runs between the two columns of stitches.
Pull the yarn through.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you’ve reached the end of the edges to join.
Make sure to pull the yarn to close up the seam every few cm or inches. Take care not to make it too tight, though, or the seam will be less invisible than it could be.
Below, you can see the result of seaming with mattress stitch on the right side of the fabric. Pretty good, right?!
And for completeness’s sake, here also the view from the wrong side of the fabric.

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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morello cerise

Morello Cerise is a triangle shawl, knit sideways. This design features lace patterning in the tradition of the Shetland Isles. The triangle edging is worked at the same time as the body of the shawlette. Worked at a loose gauge, Morello Cerise is a lovely and airy layering piece.

The pattern contains both fully written out as well as charted instructions for the lace.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.95)

€

Difficulty level

This pattern contains simple WS patterning. Stitches used include knit, purl, yo, double yo, kfb, skp, and k2tog.

This pattern is suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Finished dimensions of the sample shawl: Span width of 158 cm (62 ¼ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 76 cm (30 inches), measured after blocking.

Change the size of the shawl by using heavier yarn and/or working less (or more) repeats of the edging. This will of course change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

Gauge: Approx. 17 sts / 26 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over garter stitch, after blocking. Gauge is, however, not critical in this design.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)

Materials

Yarn: 750 m (820 yds) / 150 g Ístex Einband (100% wool; 250 m (273 yds) / 50 g). Substitute any heavy lace weight or (light) fingering weight wool yarn for a similar result.
Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used in the sample shawl.
Yarn needle.
1 stitch marker to differentiate the body from the edging of the shawl.

morello cerise Read More »

tutorial – knitting stripes in rib patterning

A tutorial on knitting stripes in rib patterning

Adding stripes is an easy way to make a project more interesting, without having to work complex patterning. But what if you’re changing colors when already working in some sort of knit-purl patterning, like the 2×2 rib pictured above? When changing the colors, you will see purl bumps in the old color showing through. Personally, I don’t like how it looks, it makes the color change look less sharp than it could. Fortunately, there is an easy solution!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the colors Marine Blue, and Vintage Pink.

Needles: A random circular needle in the 4 mm (US 6) size, with a cable length of 80 cm (32 inches).

Preventing purl bumps when knitting stripes in rib patterning

In the picture below, you can clearly see the purl bumps of the Marine Blue yarn peeking through, above the Vintage Pink.
To remove those pesky purl bumps, simply knit the entire first row or round in the new color!
For all rows or rounds following the color change, just resume the patterning as before. Do you see the difference in the picture below?
To be complete, I’ll also show you the wrong side of this piece:

tutorial – knitting stripes in rib patterning Read More »

Warm Among the Wheat

This fresh take on a simple beanie is worked from brim to crown, with twisted ribbing throughout. After the brim with the twisted rib cable patterning is worked, the body of the hat is worked to the desired height. Next, the crown is finished with neat double decreases. What is not to like?!

This pattern contains instructions for 5 sizes, ranging from a finished size of 24 cm up to 43 cm (9.5 to 17 inches) unstretched. Don’t let this fool you, though. The twisted rib patterning is extremely stretchy (stretching up to 75 cm or 29.5 inches in the largest size), making this hat very flexible in sizing. In addition, the instructions for the patterning are provided both charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €5.00)

€

Difficulty level

The Warm Among the Wheat hat is seamless and knit in the round from the bottom up. Stitches used include knit through the back loop, purl, left- and right leaning twists over 3 sts, skp, as well as left-leaning double decreases. This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5):

Finished circumference (unstretched) of 24 (28.5, 33.5, 38, 43) cm or 9.5 (11.25, 13.25, 15, 17) inches comfortably stretching to approx. 42 (50, 58.5, 67, 75) cm or 16.5 (19.75, 23, 26.5, 29.5) inches.
Finished length, measured from the crown along the curve of the hat to the edge: 17.5 (20.5, 23.5, 27, 30) cm or 6.75 (8, 9.25, 10.5, 11.75) inches.

The sample pictured is in size 3, worn on a 53.5 cm (21 inches) head.

Pattern details

The Warm Among the Wheat hat pattern is written for a gauge of 34 sts / 29 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) unstretched over twisted rib patterning after washing and gentle blocking.
Pattern language included: English.
Digital PDF has 3 pages (letter size).

Yarn

58 (85, 120, 160, 205) m (63 (93, 131, 175, 224) yds) / 23 (34, 48, 64, 82) g Anna & Clara Woolblend w/Bamboo by Søstrene Grene (70% Wool, 30% Rayon from Bamboo; 125 m (137 yds) / 50 g).

Substitute any singly ply type DK weight wool blend yarn for a similar result.

Materials

Size 3.5 mm (US 4) knitting needles in your preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round (or to match gauge).
1 end-of-round stitch marker
4 (5, 6, 7, 8) stitch markers
Cable needle
Yarn needle

Warm Among the Wheat Read More »

tutorial – working a tubular bind off for 1×1 rib

Tutorial - working a tubular bind off for 1x1 rib

The tubular bind-off creates a rounded edge of your knitting project, as well as being very stretchy. This makes it a very good bind-off for edges that are prone to wear and tear. And, of course, where the stretch is useful. Think, for example, of bottom-up socks. In this example, I’m binding off a sleeve of a top-down sweater. That said, this bind-off is very time-consuming to work, very much worth it in my opinion, though!

Of course, there are many ways to work a tubular bind-off. This particular version is for working in k1, p1 rib patterning. It can be used both in the round and for knits worked flat, and is a perfect match for the tubular cast on I did a tutorial about recently.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

Darning needle: Hiya Hiya Darn It Yarn Needle, or any other tapestry needle, threaded with yarn.

Working a tubular bind-off for 1×1 rib step by step

Before we can start, we have to measure out a length of the working yarn, before breaking it. For this, a length of approx. 3 to 4 times the length of the edge that you want to bind-off is advised. However, if you want to bind-off a long edge like the body of a sweater, this means that the length of yarn can get very unyielding and prone to tangling. So when using a feltable yarn, I highly recommend only measuring out about twice the length needed. When the yarn tail runs out, a new length can be added by first using the braided join, followed by felting the join between your hands. This would have saved me quite aggravation on a recent sweater project!

When you have measured out the length of yarn, break it, and thread it onto the darning needle.

First, make sure you have your work in front of you on the left-hand needle, ready to work.
We’ll be working on binding the stitches off from right to left.
To start, insert the darning needle purl-wise into the first stitch on the needle, and pull the yarn through.
This first stitch is a knit stitch.
Next, hold the darning needle behind the work, insert it between the first 2 stitches on the needle from back to front, then twist it around to insert it knit-wise into the second stitch (purl stitch) on the needle.
Pull the yarn through.
Now move the darning needle back to the front of the work, insert it knit-wise in the first stitch on the needle (a knit stitch) and slip this stitch off the knitting needle.
Don’t pull the yarn through yet!
Still with the darning needle at the front of the work, insert it purl-wise into the second stitch on the needle (a knit stitch), skipping the first (purl) stitch.
Now pull the yarn through.
Next, insert the darning needle purl-wise into the first stitch (the purl stitch that was skipped in the previous step), and slip it off the knitting needle.
Pull the yarn through.
Next, hold the darning needle behind the work, insert it between the first 2 stitches on the needle from back to front, then twist it around to insert it knit-wise into the second stitch (purl stitch) on the needle. This is similar to step 3.
Pull the yarn through.
Repeat steps 4 to 7 until 3 stitches remain on the knitting needle.
In this tutorial I used a swatch with an odd number of stitches. If you have a piece with an even number of stitches, repeat steps 4 to 7 until 2 stitches remain.
To finish the bind-off work steps 4 to 6 once again (in case of an even number of stitches work only step 4 once more), so only 1 stitch remains, then insert the darning needle purl-wise into the last stitch and pull the yarn through.
This is the bind-off result, isn’t it neat?!

When viewed from the side, this is how the bind off edge looks:

tutorial – working a tubular bind off for 1×1 rib Read More »

tutorial – binding off in 1×1 rib

In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to work binding off in 1×1 rib patterning. In knitting patterns you may encounter the phrase “to bind off in pattern”, after working (k1, p1) ribbing. For example, after knitting the cuff of a sleeve or the hem of a sweater. The basic premise of it, is that you continue working the knit stitches as knits, and the purl stitches as purls while binding off. The resulting edge to your work seamlessly blends into the stitch pattern. Also, working the bind off itself in rib patterning ensures that it pulls in somewhat, as ribbing tends to do. This way, it won’t flare out, as it may do when working a non-patterned bind off.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Binding off in 1×1 rib step by step

To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off.
First, we’re going to knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle. To do so, insert the right-hand needle knit wise into the first stitch.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
… and pull it through the stitch.
To complete knitting the first stitch, slip it off the left-hand needle.
Next, we’re going to purl the new stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle. To do so, insert the right-hand needle purl wise into the first stitch.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
… and pull it through the stitch.
To complete purling the stitch, slip it off the left-hand needle.
Now insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the second stitch on the right-hand needle….
…., and pass this second stitch over the first one.
You have now bound-off a stitch!
Repeat steps 2-5 plus 10-11, followed by steps 6-9 plus 10-11 until all stitches have been bound-off.
It will look something like this:

That’s how binding off in 1×1 rib is done! And here is a picture of the resulting edge. Pretty, isn’t it?!

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tulpa – the hat

Having made a cowl to highlight this gorgeous red and pink hand spun yarn, I of course also had to make a matching hat! Make your version of Tulpa the hat in any gradient fingering or light fingering weight yarn. Whatever you choose: This is bound to be an entertaining knit with a stunning result!

This pattern contains instructions for 7 sizes, ranging from a finished size of 42.5 cm up to 63.5 cm (16.75 to 25 inches). The Tulpa hat is seamless and knitted from the bottom up. The instructions for the lace panel are provided both charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €5.00)

€

Difficulty level

The Tulpa hat is seamless and worked in the round from the bottom up. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, p2tog, skp, twisted stitches, yo, as well as centered, left-leaning, and right-leaning double decreases. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Sizes 1 (2, 3, 4) [5, 6, 7]:

Finished circumference of 42.5 (45.5, 49.5, 52.5) [56.5, 60.5, 63.5] cm or 16.75 (18, 19.5, 20.75) [22.25, 23.75, 25] inches.
Finished height of 17 (18.5, 19.5, 20.5) [21, 22, 25] cm or 6.75 (7.25, 7.75, 8) [8.25, 8.75, 9.75] inches.

When choosing your hat size, take 2.5-5 cm (1-2 inches) of negative ease into account for a fitted hat. For a more slouchy fit, take 0-5 cm (0-2 inches) of positive ease into account.

Pattern details

Tulpa the hat is written for a gauge of 23 sts / 39 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) over reverse stockinette after washing and gentle blocking.
Pattern language included: English.
Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size).

Yarn

86 (102, 118, 129) [139, 156, 182] m (94 (112, 129, 141) [153, 170, 200] yds) / 16 (19, 22, 24) [26, 29, 34] g 2-ply hand spun yarn 50% wool, 50% silk; 531 m (581 yds) / 99 g, with a WPI of 15.

Substitute any fingering or light fingering weight wool/silk blend gradient yarn for a similar result.

Materials

Needles in your preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round in the following sizes (or to match gauge):
- Size 2.5 mm (US 1 ½) – for ribbed brim
- Size 3 mm (US 2 ½) – for body of the hat
Yarn needle
1 end-of-round stitch marker
7 stitch markers

tulpa – the hat Read More »

tulpa

The Tulpa cowl was inspired by the hand spun yarn the cowl pictured is made in. It can, of course, also be worked in another fingering or light fingering weight yarn. Whatever you choose: This is bound to be an entertaining knit with a stunning result!

This pattern contains instructions for 3 sizes. The Tulpa cowl is seamless and knitted in the round. The instructions for the patterning are provided both charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €5.50)

€

Difficulty level

Tulpa is seamless and worked in the round from the bottom up. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, skp, twisted stitches, yo, as well as centered, left-leaning, and right-leaning double decreases. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Finished size S (M, L): 70.5 (84.5, 98.5) cm / 27 ¾ (33 ¼, 38 ¾) inches circumference and 38.5 cm / 15 ¼ inches high. The sample shown is in size M.

The size can further be adjusted by changing the number of cast-on stitches to any multiple of 26.

Pattern details

Tulpa is written for a gauge of 18.5 sts / 32.2 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) over pattern after washing and gentle blocking.
Pattern language included: English.
Digital PDF has 5 pages (letter size).

Yarn

316 (375, 440) m (346 (411, 481) yds) / 59 (70, 82) g 2-ply hand spun yarn [50% wool, 50% silk; 531 m (581 yds) / 99 g], with a WPI of 15.

Substitute any fingering or light fingering weight wool/silk blend gradient yarn for a similar result.

Materials

For the sample cowl in size M, a 4 mm (US 6) circular needle was used, 60 cm (24 inches) length suggested. Choose a needle size to match gauge and a length appropriate for the chosen size.
Yarn needle.
1 end-of-round stitch marker.
5 (6, 7) stitch markers to separate repeats of the patterning (optional).

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tutorial – working a tubular CO in the round for 1×1 rib

The tubular cast on creates a rounded edge of your knitting project, as well as being very stretchy. This makes it a very good cast on for edges that are prone to wear and tear. And, of course, where the stretch is useful. Think, for example, of top-down socks, and the start of a bottom-up hat. In this example I’m casting on for a top-down sweater.

Of course, there are many ways to work a tubular cast on. This particular version is for working in the round in k1, p1 rib patterning.

Materials used

Yarn: Shetland Lambswool from De Schapekop, a yarn very similar to Jamieson & Smith 2ply Jumper Weight, and no. 5 crochet thread or other smooth waste yarn.

Needles: KnitPro Zing Fixed Circular Needles. In this tutorial, I used the 2.5 mm (US 1 1/2) and the 3.5 mm (US 4) size. Both with a cable length of 80 cm (32 inches).

Other materials: a crochet hook, and a stitch marker.

Working a tubular CO in the round for 1×1 rib step by step

First, using the larger size needles, the smooth waste yarn and the provisional cast on of your choice, cast on half as many stitches as you need according to your pattern.
In other words: if you need 80 stitches, cast on 40. I used the crochet provisional cast on for this step.
Now, using the smaller size needle and the working yarn, work (k1, yo) across all provisionally cast on stitches.
After this row is finished, as shown below, it’s time to join into the round.
The last worked stitch is a yarn over, so make sure it stays intact when joining into the round.
Here I’ve rearranged my stitches to continue knitting in the round, magic loop style.
Before joining, I made sure that my stitches weren’t twisted, and I’ve added the stitch marker to indicate the beginning (and end) of a round. Also, do you see that the yarn over is still there, behind the stitch marker?
In this step, work (knit 1, slip 1 purl wise with the yarn in front) to the end of the round.
In other words: knit every stitch that was knit in the previous round, and slip every yarn over. Below, is how it looks after this round is completed.
Next, work (slip 1 purl wise with the yarn in the back, purl 1) to the end of the round.
In other words: slip every stitch that was knit in the previous round, and purl every stitch that was slipped. This is how it then looks:
In this step, work (knit 1, slip 1 purl wise with the yarn in front) to the end of the round.
In other words: knit every stitch that was slipped in the previous round, and slip every stitch that was purled.
Now we repeat step 6: work (slip 1 purl wise with the yarn in the back, purl 1) to the end of the round.
In other words: slip every stitch that was knit in the previous round, and purl every stitch that was slipped.
In this step, it’s time to unravel the provisional cast on
Starting at the end that you indicated when doing the provisional cast on, undo the knot and gently pull the cast on loose.
This is the cast-on result, ready for further knitting (k1, p1) rib in the round (using magic loop) as described in your pattern!

A comparison

I thought it would be useful to compare the tubular cast on with a regular knitted on cast on one. So, I continued the piece above with another few rounds in (k1, p1) rib until it measured 1.5 cm / 0.6″.

Now take a look at the following picture. The lower neckband has a regular knitted-on cast on, followed by 1×1 rib for 1.5 cm / 0.6″. The one at the top has the tubular cast on in the round with 1×1 rib. Both pieces are worked in the same yarn, and with the same needle size.

I think the neckband with the tubular cast on looks much better, with its rounded edge. It is also much less likely to give issues with wear & tear, because there are no single strands of yarn right at that edge. What do you think?

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